back to indexThe Chemistry of Food & Taste | Dr. Harold McGee

Chapters
0:0 Harold McGee
2:21 Food Chemistry, Using Copper, Modern vs Traditional Techniques
9:59 Sponsors: Eight Sleep & Our Place
13:33 Cooking, Food & Heat, Taste & Smell
22:10 Umami, Savory Tastes, Braising & Meat
29:56 Chemistry of Cooking & Eating, Sugars & Conjugates; Slowly Enjoying Food
36:14 Savory Meal & Dessert; Food Course Order; Palate Cleansers
43:56 Salt, Baseline & Shifting Taste Preferences
47:18 Sponsors: AG1 & Mateina
50:7 Whole vs Processed Foods, Taste & Enjoyment
53:37 Brewing Coffee, Water Temperature, Grind Size
60:33 Tea & Tannins, Growing Tea Plants; Tea & Meals, Polyphenols
68:16 Food Combinations, Individual Tolerance; Is there an Optimal Diet?
71:34 Onions & Garlic, Histamines, Tool: Reduce Crying when Cutting Onions
73:55 Gut Sensitivities & Food, Capsaicin & Spicy Foods
77:21 Supertasters & Taste Buds, Bitter Taste, Chefs
81:57 Sponsor: Function
83:45 Salt & Bitter, Salting Fruit, Beer or Coffee, Warming Beer
86:11 Human History of Alcohol & Chocolate
89:25 Wine Expense vs Taste, Wine Knowledge
95:49 Cheese Making, Aged Cheese & Crystals, Tyrosine; Smoke Flavors, Distilling
104:30 Fermentation, “Stink Fish”, Caviar, Traditional & New Foods
110:42 Personal Journey, Astronomy, Poetry & Food
114:55 Beans & Gas, Tool: Soaking Beans
117:23 Gut Microbiome, Fermented Foods; Kids & Food Aversions
120:47 Cilantro & Divergent Tastes; Microwave Popcorn, Parmesan Cheese
124:46 John Keats Poetry, To Autumn; Acknowledgements
130:48 Zero-Cost Support, YouTube, Spotify & Apple Follow & Reviews, Sponsors, YouTube Feedback, Protocols Book, Social Media, Neural Network Newsletter
00:00:00.400 |
Welcome to the Huberman Lab Podcast, where we discuss science and science-based tools 00:00:09.480 |
I'm Andrew Huberman, and I'm a professor of neurobiology and ophthalmology at Stanford 00:00:17.920 |
Dr. Harold McGee is a professor at Stanford University and world-renowned author on the 00:00:22.740 |
topic of science and the chemistry of food and cooking. 00:00:26.080 |
He has spent more than four decades researching and writing about this topic. 00:00:29.980 |
His work is unique because it at once teaches us about why foods taste the way they do, 00:00:34.900 |
as well as how to make essentially any food or drink taste better. 00:00:38.320 |
I, like presumably most of you, absolutely love to eat, and for me, that's an understatement. 00:00:46.000 |
Today Harold teaches us about everything from how certain types of cookware, the bowls, the 00:00:50.320 |
pans you use, even the utensils you use, can change the taste of those foods, as well as 00:00:55.780 |
simple things like adding a pinch of salt to anything bitter tasting, including coffee and 00:00:59.960 |
coffee, yes, coffee, changes its chemistry and flavor for the better. 00:01:05.720 |
We discuss the preparation of meat and this thing that we call savoriness, or the umami 00:01:10.800 |
taste, and how it's brought about by heating proteins in very specific ways, and how you 00:01:14.840 |
can bring out more of those flavors, and how to get more of the healthy compounds, such as 00:01:21.800 |
And we cover the much debated issue of whether more expensive wines are truly better than less 00:01:26.720 |
expensive ones in terms of their taste, or whether it's all a function of marketing. 00:01:30.800 |
So, if you're a seasoned cook, or perhaps you only know how to make a few basic dishes, 00:01:34.720 |
or if your version of cooking is basically a protein shake and some oatmeal, this discussion 00:01:38.720 |
with Harold McGee will let you understand the essential chemistry of food and cooking, and 00:01:42.680 |
how to prepare food that is far more enjoyable. 00:01:45.180 |
As I said before, I love to eat, and this discussion taught me how to make the foods I love so much, 00:01:49.720 |
meat, cheese, vegetables, fruit, starches, et cetera, all taste far better. 00:01:54.640 |
And since eating is a big part of life, not just a way to support our health, I'm certain 00:01:58.680 |
that everyone will glean useful knowledge and practical tools from Dr. McGee. 00:02:02.600 |
Before we begin, I'd like to emphasize that this podcast is separate from my teaching and research 00:02:07.640 |
It is, however, part of my desire and effort to bring zero cost to consumer information about 00:02:11.960 |
science and science-related tools to the general public. 00:02:14.760 |
In keeping with that theme, today's episode does include sponsors. 00:02:18.440 |
And now for my discussion with Dr. Harold McGee. 00:02:38.840 |
We'll talk a little bit more about your background later, but you've had such a unique career focusing 00:02:48.360 |
And I must say, even just knowing a little bit about your work, you've changed the way 00:02:52.440 |
that I think about even like the sorts of metals that I might use to prepare my food, because 00:02:57.240 |
it turns out these things are all impacting one another in not just small ways, but really profound 00:03:03.240 |
ways that impact our experience of food and taste. 00:03:06.120 |
Dr. Harold McGee: So just to kick things off, is there any one wild food interaction, 00:03:14.840 |
chemistry fact that you just particularly find interesting? 00:03:19.240 |
Dr. Harold McGee: When I started writing my book about the chemistry of cooking, 00:03:24.360 |
I didn't know that much about cooking or about chemistry. 00:03:29.400 |
Dr. Harold McGee: I was kind of learning on the fly, which was part of the fun. 00:03:32.680 |
And I read when I was writing about eggs that if you're going to make a foam of egg whites to 00:03:40.680 |
make a meringue or a souffle, so you put the egg whites in a bowl and you whisk them until they 00:03:48.120 |
essentially form a solid from that liquid, a solid consisting of air bubbles trapped in the liquid. 00:03:59.400 |
And that makes it act like a solid. Amazing kind of transformation. And when I was looking at 00:04:07.720 |
what cooks had said about this process, they said you should use a copper bowl to do that whipping. 00:04:15.320 |
Dr. Harold McGee: And so I looked in the chemistry of eggs literature, of which there was a fair 00:04:21.640 |
amount actually, for some kind of explanation as to why that might be the case and couldn't find one. 00:04:28.760 |
And so I decided, well, it's probably an old cook's tale, somebody who had a copper bowl and used that 00:04:34.760 |
and thought that was better. And so I didn't think anything more about it until I was preparing my book 00:04:40.440 |
for publication looking for cheap illustrations because I couldn't afford good ones. And I found 00:04:47.640 |
an old engraving of an 18th century French kitchen. And there was a boy acting as though he was whipping 00:04:57.240 |
something in a bowl. And the bowl kind of looked like our modern copper bowls with a little ring to hang 00:05:06.040 |
the bowl on the wall. And there was a key that came along with the illustrations. And the key 00:05:12.520 |
actually said, whipping eggs in a copper bowl to make taste trees. So I thought, if the French have 00:05:21.000 |
been doing it for hundreds of years, maybe there's something to this. Maybe I should actually test it, 00:05:27.000 |
which was a really important lesson for me, test everything. I gulped and bought a copper bowl 00:05:34.760 |
because they're expensive and did a side by side. And the difference was tremendous, different color, 00:05:42.760 |
different texture, different consistency in the mouth, totally different experience. And so it was that 00:05:52.840 |
that realization that a cook's, what I thought might be an old cook's tale could actually have a kernel of 00:06:05.560 |
scientific chemical truth to it. That to me was a mind blowing and career changing experience because 00:06:13.640 |
from then on, I didn't take anything for granted. I always had to give it a try. 00:06:18.280 |
I love it. I recently started drinking water out of a copper reusable bottle mostly because I needed a 00:06:28.520 |
water bottle and there was one for sale where I happened to be and it was copper. And I rather like 00:06:33.240 |
the taste. There are all sorts of theories about copper being better for us health wise, et cetera. 00:06:38.440 |
I haven't explored those to see if they're actually true or if it's nonsense, but 00:06:45.160 |
I do like the look of it. Is copper used for the preparation of any other foods specifically in 00:06:52.600 |
order to extract the best flavor from those foods or liquids? 00:06:55.720 |
Copper is actually used in jam making, jelly and jam making. And the reason for that is that if you use 00:07:05.960 |
any other material you end up messing with actually almost everything in there because the temperatures 00:07:15.640 |
are pretty high, they're above the boiling point, but in particular the sugars. And if you break sucrose 00:07:22.840 |
down to glucose and fructose then, you know, the behavior of the material changes a lot, not necessarily for 00:07:30.600 |
the better. And it turns out that copper actually inhibits the breakdown of glucose, of sucrose into 00:07:38.040 |
glucose and fructose. And so again, for generations, cooks, French cooks in particular, have used copper bowls 00:07:48.040 |
to make their preserves. Wow. Copper is used for a variety of things, it sounds like. And people have 00:07:55.480 |
arrived to this through what sounds like kind of an unconscious genius combined with experimentation. 00:08:03.480 |
When scientists got interested in cooking, they sometimes made claims and suggested changes that 00:08:13.320 |
in fact were terrible ideas. The traditional way of doing things was actually much better. 00:08:19.960 |
They had come up with a partial understanding of what was going on. And on the basis of that partial 00:08:27.160 |
understanding decided that they needed to correct cooks who, of course, weren't as smart as they were 00:08:33.960 |
and get them to change. And so you can see in the middle of the 19th century, some cookbooks published 00:08:40.920 |
in England and the US having a subtitle, you know, the back in the day long subtitles were enjoyed. And so 00:08:50.120 |
the subtitle would be "In which the theories of Dr. Liebig have been as much as possible applied in the 00:08:58.440 |
recipes." And Liebig was, he was a genius biochemist, but on cooking, he kind of took his genius for 00:09:07.880 |
granted and was wrong. The cooks knew better. Yeah. I love this notion of unconscious genius that a field of 00:09:15.960 |
people who are experimenting without any formal rigorous coursework in a given area like chemistry 00:09:21.960 |
can, can arrive at, at truths without understanding the, the mechanistic basis of those truths. You know, 00:09:28.200 |
actually, I think a lot of what we face nowadays in the, the sphere of health and nutrition is about that 00:09:33.560 |
conflict. You know, there are papers identifying mechanisms, but then they don't play out in clinical 00:09:38.440 |
trials, which is the, you know, and then there are people in the real world who are doing things for which 00:09:42.760 |
there's really no peer reviewed research, but you get the sense that maybe they're onto something, 00:09:47.480 |
you know, so it's a very interesting intersection of, um, uh, expertise and, uh, and real world results. 00:09:54.520 |
Yes. Yeah. Or sometimes collision of the, of the two. 00:09:57.000 |
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As I mentioned before, I love to eat and we could talk about any of the different major food groups 00:13:40.440 |
as an exploration of the chemistry of food. But I think one of the more interesting ones is the 00:13:46.680 |
combination of heat and food, right? And very often people will ask me, you know, like, 00:13:53.560 |
is microwaving safe and things like that. And I didn't ask me anything recently where I said, 00:13:58.520 |
yes, indeed, microwaves are safe. You probably don't want to stand right in front of it in case 00:14:02.120 |
the mesh protector isn't as effective as it might be. But yeah, it's heating things up from the inside. 00:14:06.920 |
But we have all these different ways to heat up food. And we have ways to heat food and then cool 00:14:13.800 |
food as a way to enhance the flavor of food. When it comes to the use of heat in food, what do we know 00:14:20.680 |
about the history of the use of - I imagine it was fire first? But this is a vast, you know, topic, 00:14:28.600 |
but what are some of the interesting ways in which heat interacts with food at the chemical level to 00:14:34.280 |
allow us to enjoy that food more? Yeah, so in the anthropological literature, of course, the focus is on 00:14:45.000 |
increasing caloric intake and being able to consume materials that we wouldn't otherwise be able to 00:14:52.520 |
consume as efficiently. So that's the sort of practical side. But my feeling is that the use of 00:15:01.880 |
fire wouldn't have caught on if it didn't make foods delicious, more delicious than they'd been in the first 00:15:08.200 |
place at the same time. And in fact, probably people early on learned to associate particular sensory 00:15:19.720 |
experiences with the nutritional value of what it was they were eating and maybe even the safety. 00:15:26.360 |
Because, you know, if you kill a mammoth, you've got a lot of leftovers. And what do you do with them 00:15:34.120 |
so that they don't spoil and make you sick later on? So the terrific thing about the application of heat to 00:15:43.320 |
foods in general is that they - heat kind of takes the materials of which the food is made 00:15:51.880 |
and rearranges them, and in many cases breaks molecules down into smaller molecules that we can actually 00:16:03.800 |
detect with our senses of taste and smell. So proteins, carbohydrates, fats, that's what we think of as 00:16:15.160 |
constituting food. But they're all macromolecules. They're way too big for us to experience directly. 00:16:24.440 |
And so one of the things about cooking that's most important is that cooking will take those macromolecules 00:16:33.160 |
and break down enough of them to produce small molecules that we can detect with our senses of taste and smell 00:16:42.680 |
and enjoy simply for that reason. You know, we have - my feeling is that we have our senses for them to be 00:16:54.360 |
stimulated. And so in many cases, even if the stimulation is borderline pleasurable or maybe 00:17:05.640 |
even slightly unpleasurable, we still enjoy the fact that we're being stimulated, that something is going 00:17:12.360 |
on with our senses of taste and smell. And cooking does that in spades. It takes these molecules with no taste 00:17:21.560 |
or smell and turns them into bouquets of various kinds depending on the original material. 00:17:27.960 |
Yeah, when I think about a piece of steak and if I were to take a bite of it raw, 00:17:35.480 |
it would taste very different cold versus room temperature. And then 00:17:42.200 |
raw steak, which to me is not appetizing, cooked even just a bit, especially if it were seared on the outside, 00:17:50.520 |
now becomes pretty darn good. Cooked it a little bit more like medium rare with a really nice sear 00:17:58.920 |
on the outside. I think they call it Pittsburgh char. Anyone that likes the outside of the steak really 00:18:03.880 |
nice, nice and charred and the inside rare, it's Pittsburgh char, if the chef knows what they're doing, 00:18:09.720 |
is absolutely delicious. So what's happening there? You said that heat changes the molecular structure, 00:18:19.160 |
but what about those changes allow us to taste it more, not just differently? Because as you said, 00:18:27.320 |
raw steak is pretty bland. I mean, most of us probably think of that as kind of gross, but it's also kind of 00:18:33.640 |
bland compared to when it's cooked. What's happening? What's being released into the steak? 00:18:41.400 |
Yeah. So what happens is that the materials of the tissue, and in the case of meat, it's mostly protein 00:18:50.440 |
and fat. Those macromolecules, large molecules that are too big for our senses to register, get broken apart. 00:19:02.120 |
And that's because heat is energy. Energy agitates things. It agitates molecules at the surface of the 00:19:13.000 |
food enough to break them apart into much, much smaller pieces. And it's those pieces that we're 00:19:20.120 |
experiencing when we take a bite. The pieces are not only much smaller, but they're also reactive so that 00:19:30.440 |
they can react with each other. They can react with oxygen in the air surrounding the food. 00:19:35.640 |
And so we end up with, you know, if you did an analysis of the aroma coming off of 00:19:44.360 |
some steak tartare and coming off of a Pittsburgh char, you're going to have very, very little 00:19:55.320 |
noticeable, even with instrumentation. But off of the steak, a tremendous amount of volatile molecules, 00:20:05.560 |
which are the ones that our noses detect. And then also molecules that are small enough to stimulate our 00:20:14.200 |
taste receptors. So we have a handful and they, we think of them as responding to sweet, sour, salt, bitter, 00:20:23.480 |
umami tastes. We, we encounter those tastes and all kinds of things in everyday life. But when you 00:20:32.760 |
cook a piece of meat to a high temperature and do a good amount of damage to that outer 00:20:42.200 |
molecular surface, uh, molecular surface, you generate molecules that can stimulate those receptors, 00:20:47.560 |
even though they themselves are not sugars or salts or, or whatever. What I like to think of is just the 00:20:55.560 |
alchemy of, uh, of heat. You know, you, you take this material, you add energy and you transform it in 00:21:04.280 |
ways that are delightful to us. So if I understand correctly, even though, um, the molecules in meat, 00:21:12.600 |
uh, typically wouldn't stimulate the sweet receptor. When you cook steak, it starts to stimulate the sweet 00:21:20.520 |
receptors because of the change in those molecules. You, you, you've reduced their size and you've changed 00:21:25.400 |
their, their configuration depending on which recipe you use. Yes. And, and you're also generating, uh, 00:21:32.840 |
where once you might have had, um, you know, uh, uh, well, these days our enumeration of molecules 00:21:41.480 |
has gotten so good that who knows exactly how many are in that raw piece of meat. But, uh, whatever that number 00:21:48.840 |
is it's multiplied many fold by the application of heat simply because it's taking those materials, 00:21:55.000 |
breaking them apart and getting them to react with each other. Um, and, uh, the result is, uh, just, uh, 00:22:03.320 |
an explosion of sensory, um, uh, information that simply wasn't there before. We have to talk about umami. 00:22:12.440 |
I mean, and not just because the name is fun to say, but, um, this, uh, receptor that seems to, uh, 00:22:20.120 |
bind molecules, um, that give us the sensation, at least in part of savoriness. Uh, I mean, to me, 00:22:28.440 |
few things are as delicious as the, um, braise that comes off of meat in a cast iron pan 00:22:39.080 |
that I would literally scrape that stuff up onto the spatula and eat it if, uh, no one's looking. 00:22:45.800 |
Um, and anyone that thinks that that sounds gross, I mean, it is absolutely delicious. I mean, it is 00:22:53.000 |
like the, the, the pinnacle of like why we eat protein. That's why it feels so darn delicious to me. 00:23:02.520 |
Um, and the, the intensity of flavor per unit of, uh, whatever that stuff is, um, is so high. 00:23:08.920 |
But then here's the thing. If you were to wait two hours and come back and pick up one of those little 00:23:15.000 |
black, you know, um, crumbs of braise and put it in your mouth, it kind of like punch you in the mouth. 00:23:22.360 |
And it tastes like kind of awful. Like you were licking the, um, the grill of a barbecue from two 00:23:26.920 |
days before. Not good. So what's going on with, with braise and with umami? And we can talk about 00:23:33.720 |
a lot of non-meat, um, uh, ways to stimulate umami, but such a, an interesting aspect of food and taste. 00:23:40.440 |
Yeah. Yeah, it is. And something that when I started writing about cooking in the seventies, 00:23:47.800 |
no one believed it existed except for the Japanese scientists who were living in the country where it 00:23:55.240 |
was discovered in the first place. That's right. They were the first to molecularly clone the umami 00:23:59.880 |
receptor as far as I know. And they were also the first to claim that there was a, uh, sensation, 00:24:06.120 |
taste sensation that was not sweet, sour, salt, or bitter, uh, which is why they were disbelieved in 00:24:13.640 |
the West for, for decades and decades. And when I, uh, as I say, when I started writing, 00:24:19.160 |
that was the standard view. Japanese have this weird idea of something, uh, a basic taste, um, 00:24:26.600 |
that's just simply not correct. Um, and I, I went to a couple of meetings in Boston and remembered this 00:24:32.680 |
being debated among, uh, uh, uh, chemists. First, I'll just say that, uh, I know exactly what you mean 00:24:39.640 |
about the, that flavor, uh, of something that you apparently feel guilty about enjoying because 00:24:46.440 |
you said you would, uh, uh, scrape it up when no one was looking. When I was growing up, there were, 00:24:52.280 |
we have a family of four children. Um, my mother would occasionally make a, uh, an oven baked chicken, 00:25:01.560 |
cut up into pieces and, um, the drippings would drip down to the pan and brown. And after the meal, 00:25:08.760 |
my siblings and I would line up for a spoonful of the scrapings. Delicious. I can, I, I can smell it 00:25:17.800 |
and taste it just a bit. Yeah. Anyone that's cringing at that, you have not tasted proper braise from meat. 00:25:24.840 |
Uh, it's, uh, assuming you is consume animal, uh, proteins. It is, um, absolutely delicious. 00:25:32.920 |
Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I can, I can, it just takes me back. It's Proustian to go back to that. 00:25:39.480 |
Uh, so, uh, to make a long story short, the Japanese were shown to be correct, uh, by Western standards. 00:25:49.080 |
They always knew they were correct, but, uh, by Western standards, they were proved to be correct 00:25:53.560 |
when a, uh, receptor for, uh, glutamate was discovered, uh, in the 2000s. Yeah. Early 2000s. 00:26:03.400 |
Uh, so finally, Western scientists were on board. Um, meanwhile, cooks, uh, had been on board for a long 00:26:12.360 |
time, uh, because they're always looking for ways to make their food more delicious. And they'd heard about 00:26:18.040 |
this. Some went to Japan. They came back. And, um, so, uh, umami is, um, a sensation that's a little 00:26:29.480 |
bit difficult to, uh, to describe compared to sweet, sour, salt, and bitter. Um, savory, I think, is the 00:26:38.760 |
word you use. And that's the, sort of the, the, the usual nomenclature. Um, when you try to characterize it 00:26:45.400 |
further, it's, it's, uh, a feeling of fullness and length. So the, the flavor, there's just a lot of 00:26:54.440 |
it there and it sticks with you for, for a while. That's what we mean by length. Yeah. Got it. 00:27:00.840 |
I feel like also it, um, it doesn't occur just in my mouth, you know, and I'm not, um, 00:27:09.720 |
like very nuanced about food. I mean, I love food, but, um, I'm not somebody who can really, 00:27:15.160 |
I don't consider myself a food connoisseur. I just know what I like and what I don't like, but I feel 00:27:20.760 |
like the, the taste of something with a lot of umami flavor actually spreads throughout the body. 00:27:26.680 |
It's like a, a whole head experience maybe, maybe down to the chest. It's not restricted to like a 00:27:32.680 |
location in, on the tongue or something like that. Later, we'll talk about this myth about restricted 00:27:38.280 |
receptors on the tongue. But, um, yeah, one has to wonder if, if, um, because the umami, um, 00:27:48.040 |
receptor stimulation is so closely tied to savoriness and protein and because protein was 00:27:53.160 |
presumably scarce in evolutionary history, whether or not there's some reward pathways that are like, 00:27:58.200 |
oh, this is, this is good to, because people had to work really hard under dangerous conditions often 00:28:04.440 |
to get umami stimulation. Yes. Yes. Yeah, that's right. And, um, uh, I, I would also say that, uh, 00:28:14.440 |
from at least my reading of the, the literature, we only know a tiny, tiny bit about what's going on 00:28:22.120 |
when we smell things and taste things. So we know the, the initial step, there's a receptor on our tongue, 00:28:28.280 |
that responds to glutamate, which, which is associated with this sensation. What happens 00:28:34.040 |
after that? Who knows? Um, and, and there's also the fact that glutamate is an important, uh, molecule 00:28:42.040 |
in the body for signaling. So who knows what kind of, you know, crosstalk there might be between the, 00:28:49.080 |
the receptor on the tongue and the rest of the body. Um, and people have also in the last, 00:28:55.800 |
what, 10 years or so discovered, uh, taste receptors for all the tastes in our GI tract. 00:29:02.600 |
Yeah. That is so interesting. I, and so important too, because, um, well, maybe that's the sensation 00:29:08.440 |
that, um, things are, uh, that the umami taste is, is much deeper. Yeah. Is that, that they're in the 00:29:15.240 |
esophagus and presumably maybe even into the stomach? Yeah. Yeah. Um, wild. I heard, um, that tigers 00:29:23.960 |
have something like 10,000 fold more umami receptors than humans, but they have no sweet receptors. I don't 00:29:32.120 |
know if that's true. Usually when you hear something like that, it's likely to be not completely true, but 00:29:37.960 |
who knows, we look it up and, and someone will tell us in the comments, um, which upon hearing made me 00:29:44.680 |
immediately want to try being a tiger for one day. Like, I can't even imagine how good, um, meat tastes 00:29:51.240 |
to, to carnivores that have that density of umami receptors. Yeah. But it raises another question too, 00:29:57.160 |
which is assuming that's true with the absence of the sweet receptor, perhaps make meat taste completely 00:30:04.360 |
different. You know, in other words, is there crosstalk between these receptors so that when you eat 00:30:09.080 |
something that's like this spoonful of, of braise drippings off the, the, the roasted chicken, um, presumably 00:30:17.960 |
there's a, some stimulation of the sweet receptors. If you only had umami receptors, maybe it wouldn't taste good 00:30:24.440 |
at all. Is the chemistry of food occurring in the mouth, not just, um, in the food itself? Wonderful 00:30:30.120 |
questions. I don't know where to begin exactly, except to say that when you, um, brown a piece of meat or, 00:30:37.480 |
just cook it to a high temperature so that the outside of the meat changes color, uh, that, that color change 00:30:47.240 |
is an indication of some, uh, uh, uh, a group of reactions called the Maillard reactions, after the 00:30:55.560 |
guy who, uh, actually didn't quite address this, but he got, he got his name associated with it. Anyway, um, 00:31:03.960 |
the Maillard reactions are essentially reactions between fragments of proteins and fragments of carbohydrates 00:31:11.240 |
and fats. And, uh, uh, the, uh, reaction pathways are really complicated. They still haven't been worked 00:31:19.960 |
out completely, but they generate, uh, a bunch of different classes of products. And among those 00:31:27.320 |
products are sugars. So you don't start out necessarily with sugars, but if you've got proteins 00:31:34.360 |
and fats, you can make sugars simply with the alchemy of, uh, applying heat. So that's part of 00:31:42.280 |
what's going on. And I would say that, um, yeah, tigers are missing out because there's an interesting 00:31:49.320 |
dimension of flavor to, to meat, uh, that, that has been cooked. There's the chemistry of cooking and then 00:31:56.840 |
there's the chemistry of enjoying, of tasting, uh, consuming. And it turns out, uh, that that's 00:32:04.760 |
complicated in, in its own right, because first of all, we're presenting our sensory apparatus with, 00:32:11.320 |
um, the most complex materials that they're going to encounter. Nature does not, uh, generate this kind 00:32:19.240 |
of complexity. Uh, we're, we're doing it for ourselves. And that's part, I think, of the, of the 00:32:25.800 |
great pleasure that we take from it. Um, but it also turns out that in the mouth changes can take place. 00:32:34.600 |
And this is actually, it was actually first, uh, noticed by, uh, experts in wine because they found 00:32:44.600 |
that when they, um, put a raw grape in their mouth to taste, you know, what, what, what's the 00:32:52.760 |
characteristics of the, of this particular grape and how does that carry over into the wine? 00:32:58.120 |
What they noticed was that initially there's just the taste of the grape, but then as they sit there, 00:33:03.960 |
other flavors begin to, uh, come. And because they were experts in wine tasting, they were able to, 00:33:13.000 |
uh, figure out which ones they were. And they, they were some of them molecules that you find in the 00:33:19.960 |
finished wine and it's just in your mouth. You just chewed it. So it turns out that there are in, um, 00:33:28.120 |
all kinds of foods, um, molecules that are, uh, called conjugates, you know, they're, uh, uh, kind of 00:33:37.000 |
business end of the molecule and then usually attached to a sugar of some kind. And, um, when we 00:33:44.440 |
put something in our mouth and we have enzymes in our mouth, uh, those enzymes can go to work on things 00:33:51.480 |
like conjugates and free up, um, um, the sugar from the, uh, rest of the molecule and the rest of the 00:34:01.240 |
molecule can be aromatic. And, uh, it's known now that the Maillard reactions generate not only sugars, 00:34:10.360 |
but conjugates. And so, uh, there's, there's just a lot going on and it's, it's, uh, uh, I think one of 00:34:19.080 |
the best arguments for, uh, enjoying your food slowly because you never know what's going to kind of 00:34:29.000 |
show up in your mouth, uh, after, you know, 20 or 30 seconds in slow down, enjoy every bite and, 00:34:37.240 |
and notice what's happening, uh, because it's, uh, it's often a really dynamic, uh, experience. 00:34:43.480 |
We're going to have a hard time convincing many people to slow down their rate of eating. However, 00:34:49.000 |
promise them that a richer experience of the food and not just that they're trying to eat less or 00:34:54.520 |
something, which is the usual reason that people hear they should chew their food, 00:34:58.120 |
maybe improve digestion as well. Um, they might be incentivized to do it. I should point out of all 00:35:03.560 |
the senses, um, it seems taste and its relationship to food. We have, um, more control over that 00:35:11.400 |
experience. Like let me state this differently. If I were to do a podcast on, you know, that simply by 00:35:18.440 |
looking around the world differently, you could start to actually get new visual perceptual abilities. 00:35:23.640 |
That'd be pretty exciting, but I'm sorry, but that's not true. It doesn't work. I mean, 00:35:27.720 |
you could enhance your, you know, some discrimination of certain things if you were trained to look for 00:35:32.200 |
them, but that can change your visual perceptual abilities. But with taste, it sounds like we, 00:35:36.200 |
we have the ability. So when you say slow down, do you mean, um, slow down the chewing, take pauses after, 00:35:47.320 |
Yeah, all of the above, because even after you swallow, there are residues in your mouth and at 00:35:53.000 |
the back of your mouth. And that's what the wine experts noticed was the change in those residues. 00:35:58.680 |
So it's not that they chewed on a grape and then kept it in their mouth for a minute. Uh, it was just 00:36:04.200 |
what was leftover. So the leftovers can be as delicious as the main course. 00:36:08.600 |
All right. I'm going to start taking pauses between at least food types. Um, I've sometimes had the 00:36:16.040 |
experience of eating something particularly delicious. Um, for instance, uh, meat, um, or fruit or 00:36:24.920 |
vegetables. I love all the, the, I'm an omnivore. So I love all these things, but I'm so satisfied with 00:36:32.120 |
what I just ate that I don't want something sweet right away because of the collision that occurs 00:36:38.920 |
between foods. Am I alone in not liking dessert, but liking dessert foods on their own at a separate 00:36:46.920 |
time? Am I, or am I just like on a desert island of experience here? No, I'm actually, uh, completely the 00:36:54.200 |
same. Um, I, uh, I, uh, I would prefer to have another half glass of wine than dessert, uh, just 00:37:02.840 |
simply to prolong the experience of the, the, the main part of the meal. Um, and desserts, sweet things I 00:37:10.920 |
enjoy, but not after, um, a big meal of, of other things, savory things. Um, my wife, uh, who's Japanese, 00:37:21.640 |
says she has, uh, a separate mouth and a separate stomach for desserts and she can go right into it 00:37:28.520 |
after, um, after the, the main course. But yeah, I, I prefer not to. I feel like many people eat dinner 00:37:37.000 |
just to get to dessert. Let's actually talk about food order in the meal. Um, many years ago, uh, I had 00:37:45.800 |
a girlfriend who was from the south of France, from the Perigord. So she grew up in what is arguably 00:37:51.560 |
one of the food capitals of the, of the planet. You know, people think French food Paris, but actually 00:37:59.480 |
people in the south of France are so serious about food that her family would spend most of the day 00:38:07.720 |
and the night and the meal talking about the next meal or a previous meal. Um, they would search for 00:38:14.600 |
mushrooms with binoculars. If they spotted one in the neighbor's yard, they were like perplexed as to how to, 00:38:21.480 |
negotiate for that mushroom. You couldn't actually go get the, steal the mushroom. That would be a, 00:38:25.720 |
like a cardinal sin. I mean, they are so serious about food, every aspect of it, as you know. 00:38:32.360 |
And we used to get into these intense arguments about the order in which one is supposed to eat 00:38:37.960 |
food. And, you know, in her mind, it was soup first because it actually prepares the gut 00:38:43.960 |
and then always salad last. This whole notion of eating, uh, salad at the beginning of the meal was 00:38:52.600 |
like heresy to, uh, to, uh, I mean, to everything that she had known and, and conceptualized about food. 00:38:59.400 |
So I have to believe that whether one likes French food or not, that they, they're onto something that 00:39:09.480 |
when it comes to digestion, when it comes to being able to really taste the full array of flavors in 00:39:16.680 |
a food that we probably should be doing soup first, then an appetizer, then an entree, and then salad 00:39:23.240 |
last. And if we're not consuming an entire, you know, meal of that sort, that salad shouldn't be eaten 00:39:29.240 |
at the beginning of a meal. Are they right? I'm pretty sure that she was right. 00:39:35.720 |
Very good question. And I guess my answer would depend on the audience. 00:39:40.920 |
So, and I say that because of course, if you go to a banquet in China, everything is served 00:39:48.520 |
simultaneously. Really? They just slide it all out in front of you? Yeah. 00:39:51.960 |
And do people eat everything and kind of mishmash? Or there may be, um, phases, 00:39:57.640 |
but you're presented with many, many different dishes at each phase. 00:40:03.480 |
And it is overwhelming. I, I, and you know, it's partly, uh, well, I, I don't want to, uh, generalize. 00:40:12.600 |
Maybe it has to do with, um, perhaps, uh, emphasizing the, the, uh, abundance and, and generosity 00:40:23.960 |
of the meal rather than focusing on the pleasure that you can get from each stage in it. Maybe it's, 00:40:30.360 |
um, maybe the French are more focused on the, the sensory experience, but there are many, 00:40:36.040 |
many different ways to, um, to sequence dishes in a meal. And, um, I, I think it does, the, the, the French 00:40:45.880 |
way of doing it, uh, does make a lot of sense. Uh, my family and I lived in, uh, the countryside 00:40:52.440 |
near Toulouse for a year and, um, ate around with the neighbors and so on. And, and my daughter and son 00:41:00.680 |
went to school where they were given a full hour for lunch. And it was a coursed lunch with all those 00:41:08.520 |
different components. Uh, so it, it, it does make sense, I think, because, um, having the soup, uh, 00:41:19.320 |
come early helps, um, among other things, partly fill your stomach so that when you then go to the main 00:41:29.720 |
course, um, you don't have to eat as much in order to be satisfied. And then the salad, you, you know, 00:41:38.680 |
the salad is coming and it kind of refreshes you because the main course is usually, um, on the heavy 00:41:47.400 |
and rich side. Almost always. Yeah. Yeah. Goose breast with foie gras was not uncommon in her 00:41:54.120 |
household. Yes. And they were a middle-class home, I should mention. So it wasn't that people there were 00:41:58.840 |
eating goose breast with foie gras because they were among the like elite. It was, that was the, uh, 00:42:05.800 |
ham and cheese sandwich of the, of the town. Yeah. Those are, those are the local products. And, 00:42:12.600 |
uh, the, the geese were probably being raised down the road. So, yeah. Um, so I think, uh, the, 00:42:21.080 |
the salad kind of closes out the, the main part of the meal and refreshes you a little bit. And then 00:42:28.520 |
if you're going to have dessert, you're ready for it rather than being overwhelmed by yet another rich, 00:42:33.880 |
um, uh, another rich course. So I think it does make a lot of sense for the, for that, uh, structure 00:42:42.360 |
of a meal where you have those different courses. Yeah. This notion of, um, cleansing the palate 00:42:48.440 |
is kind of an interesting one. Um, but it's been a long time since I've been to a meal where they served 00:42:53.640 |
a palate cleanser in between dishes. I mean, that that's something that I think in the 80s and 90s 00:42:58.680 |
became a little bit popular in the United States and my family wasn't serving or attending those 00:43:04.200 |
sorts of meals, but I've, I've been to a few. It's kind of an interesting idea, but, um, molecularly, 00:43:09.800 |
chemically speaking, is that a real thing that you're going to wash out the flavor of what you just ate 00:43:14.600 |
so that you can prepare for the next, uh, next item on the menu, or is it more, um, for, for show? 00:43:20.680 |
Well, I, I think it's both. Um, I, I, I do think that, you know, if you're, uh, and again, 00:43:27.240 |
depending on the details, but palate cleansers are usually cold and, um, you know, not, uh, 00:43:35.960 |
not too strong in any direction, uh, a little bit tart often. Um, so something cold and tart to break 00:43:45.080 |
up a meal where you've gone from one kind of rich course and you're, you're about to have another 00:43:50.120 |
rich course because it's a fancy restaurant. Uh, I think that probably does make sense. 00:43:55.320 |
Yeah. My next question is a bit more of a human physiology question, but I think we're all familiar 00:44:03.240 |
with the kind of, um, um, taste intensity drift. I can't think of a better phrase where, you know, 00:44:10.920 |
if you are used to drinking your coffee black and you start putting a little bit of cream in it, 00:44:16.920 |
maybe a little bit of cream and a little bit of sugar, going back to black coffee feels like a step 00:44:23.320 |
in the really bitter direction. Um, and then if you start adding more sugar or eating sweeter foods, 00:44:29.640 |
it seems like we reset our threshold for what we consider too sweet. And there are all sorts of 00:44:35.560 |
health implications, negative health implications around this, but, um, is that a real thing? 00:44:43.000 |
Are, are we actually changing our threshold for what we consider bitter or sweet? 00:44:47.160 |
I asked this because recently I've developed a, um, I won't call it an addiction, but, um, a love for, 00:44:53.240 |
um, cacao beans. And the first time I bit into one of those, I thought, oh, like those are bitter. 00:45:00.920 |
And now it's one of my favorite parts of my morning where I'm like pop five or six of those 00:45:05.400 |
in my mouth and munch on them and they, they taste bitter, but they taste so good and they're kind of 00:45:09.400 |
barky. They have kind of like a bark taste to them. And I, I swear I can taste the polyphenols, 00:45:14.920 |
although that's all, all cognitive, right? So what I just described is not uncommon, uh, for me. 00:45:22.680 |
What is this whole thing about thresholds for, for bitterness and sweet and do they interact? 00:45:28.520 |
Yeah. Yeah. So taste is, uh, hugely malleable as far as we can tell. And, um, I think this is best 00:45:38.520 |
documented in the literature, trying to find ways to reduce the sodium content of, of, um, packaged goods. 00:45:47.720 |
So, um, manufacturers have been saying, um, long after, um, but biomedical people were saying we should 00:45:57.240 |
cut back on our sodium intake. Uh, we would be happy to do that in our products, but our consumers don't 00:46:04.920 |
like our products without the level of salt that we have in them. So people at the Monell Chemical 00:46:12.200 |
Census Center in Philadelphia did some, uh, pretty systematic studies of this. And what they found was 00:46:20.280 |
that you can over time adjust, uh, thresholds and preferences for the basic tastes. They were focusing 00:46:31.160 |
on salt because that was the, the issue at hand. Uh, but there's no reason to think that that's not, 00:46:36.840 |
not the case for everything that if you, uh, become, uh, used to a particular level of stimulation, 00:46:46.280 |
then that becomes your, your new normal. And anything below or above that is going to stand out 00:46:53.400 |
for being, uh, not quite enough or too much. So I think the, the, we're perfectly capable of training 00:47:02.200 |
ourselves to, uh, adjust our preferences. Um, uh, it does take time. So the Monell study, 00:47:11.000 |
I think lasted maybe a couple of months. It takes time, but, but it's certainly doable. 00:47:16.840 |
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I stopped eating quote-unquote junk food a long time ago, and I've totally lost interest. 00:50:12.280 |
In parallel to that, I enjoy strawberries and vegetables and meat and fish and eggs and rice 00:50:22.440 |
and oatmeal so much more with each successive year. And I think it's in part because of this reshaping of 00:50:30.360 |
of what one considers flavorful. But I also feel like my experience of food is getting richer and richer, 00:50:37.320 |
as opposed to worse and worse. So it's kind of interesting and kind of counterintuitive. Do we have 00:50:41.640 |
any evidence that if you eat foods closer to their, let's just say in their unadulterated form, 00:50:49.320 |
that you get more out of the taste experience than if you are combining lots and lots of flavors, which 00:50:59.320 |
Yeah. I can't point to chapter and verse in the literature on this, but I think it just makes 00:51:07.800 |
common sense that if you're going to start with strawberries and then add a bunch of other things, 00:51:18.840 |
vanilla extract and sugars and who knows what else in order to 00:51:25.640 |
essentially, as processed foods try to do, just kind of wow your mouth with an overwhelming sensation 00:51:38.760 |
that you then want to repeat, rather than slowing down and enjoying the nuances. 00:51:44.520 |
Because the natural world gives us these amazing ingredients like strawberries and blueberries and 00:51:53.480 |
oats and so on. And then to take those amazing ingredients, which you can kind of savor for, 00:52:03.880 |
you know, a minute at a time and really enjoy, to take those ingredients and make them 00:52:12.200 |
ingredients rather than things in themselves and combine them with lots of other things 00:52:20.040 |
for the purpose of stimulation, rather than the purpose of appreciating and enjoying those individual 00:52:30.680 |
components, then you're kind of giving up, I would say, most of the pleasure of eating. You're just 00:52:37.160 |
fueling yourself with stuff that is going to give you an immediate hit of flavor and then be gone. 00:52:50.680 |
what was in that food is opaque, you know, it may have been strawberries once upon a time, but it's now 00:52:59.160 |
been masked by all these other things. And meanwhile, one of the miracles of living on this planet is 00:53:06.360 |
strawberries and the just vast range of materials that plants have gone to the trouble of preparing 00:53:16.600 |
you for the sake of pleasing us. And so to hand that responsibility or that activity over to 00:53:27.400 |
manufacturers who are just looking to make things as cheaply and quickly as possible, I think is a mistake. 00:53:47.560 |
It can be. I mean, it depends on where you get your beans from, but... 00:53:52.760 |
And how long they last. But I think so, yeah. 00:54:01.880 |
And then you use a drip filter, a machine, a French press? 00:54:09.640 |
We have this colleague of ours at Stanford, Adler, who built the AeroPress, which I've used for years, 00:54:16.360 |
long before they were involved with the podcast. I remember seeing him throwing the Aerobee Frisbee, 00:54:24.680 |
And I think that the AeroPress is an interesting idea because it sort of combines French press and 00:54:30.680 |
filter drip, right? It's kind of a... But yeah, there is actually really interesting data that 00:54:36.600 |
coffee has some, perhaps it seems, some powerful health-promoting effects, but it depends on how 00:54:46.360 |
you brew it. So how are you brewing it? Not that I'm going to get you to change the way you do anything 00:54:50.920 |
with food or drink. So I go back and forth between a metal filter and a paper filter. And yeah, I lived 00:55:02.840 |
near the park where Alan Adler would fly his Aerobees, and so I visited with him and chatted about the 00:55:12.280 |
AeroPress. And I like the idea a lot. And it seems to me you can control the flavor with it much more than 00:55:21.640 |
you can with a drip system, simply because when it drips, it drips, but you can hold it into the, 00:55:27.720 |
hold it in the AeroPress as long as you want. The temperature of water is so critical with coffee. Do you 00:55:35.960 |
take it to a boil or no? I know people might think, gosh, they're really getting down into the weeds, but 00:55:40.520 |
the flavor of coffee is completely different if you take the water to a boil versus just get it 00:55:45.400 |
near boil or cut off the heat a moment after it starts to boil. Completely different beverage, 00:55:53.240 |
in my opinion. Yeah. And I actually prefer coffee, drip coffee with water right off the boil. So I've 00:56:03.960 |
tried all the different stages and that's just my preference. The important thing though is to know 00:56:11.880 |
that the temperature does make a difference and the pleasure you get from it is going to vary depending on 00:56:18.600 |
the temperature you, of the water that you use. So it's worth knowing that and then playing around and 00:56:25.160 |
seeing what you like best. So that's the experience side of it, chemically and what's happening. I mean, 00:56:31.480 |
when you, when you brew coffee, what are some of the interesting coffee chemistry factoids? 00:56:37.480 |
I'm obsessed with this stuff as you can tell. Yes. Well, uh, so first of all, there's the, 00:56:44.360 |
the grind size makes a huge difference. Um, because what you're essentially doing is extracting, 00:56:50.760 |
uh, extractable materials from the solids. Um, and, uh, a typical cup of coffee, you're extracting maybe 20% 00:57:01.080 |
of the weight of the, the original weight of the coffee. So it's not that much, uh, except that it's all the 00:57:08.600 |
good stuff. And in fact, the, the longer you extract, the more you extract, the larger the molecules you're able to 00:57:16.120 |
remove. And those larger molecules are the ones that tend to be 00:57:21.560 |
tannic and astringent and really bitter. Yes. The longer you, um, let the beans or the ground beans, 00:57:29.880 |
um, uh, be exposed to the hot water, the more large molecules you pull off. The large molecules are the 00:57:36.840 |
ones that give it that kind of punch you back in the mouth. Yeah. Um, feeling the tannic. Yeah. 00:57:42.360 |
It's interesting. And, and bitter. In fact, it's kind of a fun experiment. If you, 00:57:46.920 |
if you love coffee and you're interested in this kind of thing, what you can do is, um, uh, make a, 00:57:53.400 |
a, um, uh, set up a filter with coffee in it and line up four or five different cups and then pour 00:58:00.760 |
the water in and then every 30 seconds or so move it from cup to cup. And you can see what comes out early 00:58:09.160 |
and middle and late and what comes out late are these larger molecules. And late is kind of, um, 00:58:16.840 |
uh, synonymous, uh, or, or you can think of using hotter water as the temperature equivalent of brewing 00:58:27.000 |
later and later that you're getting more stuff out. The word that comes to mind is stale coffee that's 00:58:32.840 |
been on the coffee pot a long time. Uh-huh. Is that, that seems to be the flavor you're describing 00:58:37.160 |
when you, you, uh, pull these large molecules out. Is that right? Well, actually I would say that, uh, 00:58:43.160 |
so, so yeah, the, the old, unfortunately not so common anymore, the old coffee urn that you would 00:58:49.800 |
have at conferences and things like that. Or the one where you pump the, yeah. Yeah. Some people 00:58:55.880 |
will know what we're talking about. Yeah. And the coffee has been in there for a couple hours, 00:59:02.280 |
probably. Uh, that to me is, uh, stale coffee and that's, that's, um, changes in, in the smaller 00:59:10.440 |
aromatic molecules as well as the, the larger ones. But, uh, I think the, the take home lesson is that 00:59:18.680 |
these little details make a difference. And, um, if you're a stickler for coffee just the way you want it, 00:59:25.320 |
then doing some of these experiments to see, you know, what's, what's on either side of the coffee 00:59:31.000 |
that you brew, uh, usually is worth knowing about. You know, I think everyone could afford to slow 00:59:37.960 |
down their experience of consuming food for a variety of reasons. Some of which, uh, you mentioning, uh, 00:59:43.560 |
like just straight up better taste and taste experience. Um, and also with beverages, um, 00:59:52.120 |
I, I consume a, uh, an ungodly amount of caffeine each day. I'm very caffeine tolerant. I actually can't 00:59:56.920 |
drink coffee in the morning. Um, but in the afternoon, I absolutely love it. It tastes, it tastes 01:00:03.320 |
aversive to me early in the day. I don't know why I drink yerba mate early in the day and throughout the 01:00:08.680 |
morning. And then in the afternoon, I like a cup of coffee in the same cup of coffee. It tastes 01:00:14.120 |
absolutely delightful in the afternoon. I don't know what it is. Yeah. Yeah. That's, that's mysterious 01:00:22.360 |
to me too. Yeah. Can't claim pregnancy either. So, um, you know, because, uh, that people who are 01:00:28.280 |
pregnant, uh, report feeling kind of nauseous to certain tastes at one time a day versus another. 01:00:33.080 |
Yeah. Um, is there anything else we can do with our coffee and tea? You know, so I, the, 01:00:38.440 |
the tannic flavor or the, the experience of a tea being too tannic is awful. It tastes metallic. Um, 01:00:46.600 |
but when tea's done right, it's very smooth. What is this tannic smooth thing in the context of tea? 01:00:52.440 |
Is it the same thing, large molecule, small molecules? Yeah. It's basically the same thing. It, 01:00:56.680 |
it also depends on, you know, what's left in the tea leaf. So some teas are, uh, just by definition, 01:01:03.000 |
going to be more tannic than others because they have been treated differently in order to make 01:01:09.160 |
the dried tea. Um, I have, uh, three or four tea bushes in my backyard. And so I make tea every year. 01:01:17.640 |
Um, whenever the new growth comes out, that's what you make tea with. What kind of tea do you make? 01:01:23.480 |
Uh, that's the fun thing about having the bushes. I make all kinds and I play around with them and, 01:01:29.640 |
you know, see what happens if I just, you know, pluck a leaf and brew that or pluck a leaf, let it 01:01:36.040 |
wither in the sun and then brew that or do the various processing techniques. They give you oolong, 01:01:43.640 |
which is kind of medium, um, uh, manipulated. And then black tea is very heavily manipulated, 01:01:51.320 |
but it's a whole spectrum and it's a lot of fun to play with. And you're just putting 01:01:55.160 |
these directly into hot water. You put it in like a metal tea strainer. For most of them, 01:01:59.560 |
what you have to do first is dry them. Uh, but then when I make tea, um, yeah, 01:02:05.560 |
it's just leaves into a pot and then, uh, pouring the tea out. I, I make small pots so, so that I can 01:02:13.960 |
try lots of different things. How do you dry them? Uh, that's another variable. So you can let them air dry. 01:02:21.000 |
You can just out on the counter. Yeah. Yeah. And it takes, takes, um, I live in San Francisco, 01:02:27.320 |
so it's not very warm. So it takes a while for them to dry on the counter, but you can also, 01:02:32.280 |
I put them in the, uh, toaster oven. I'll dry them. A lot of Chinese green teas even are dried in, uh, 01:02:41.160 |
in a wok. So I will do that. You heat them up in the wok. Yeah. Yeah. Uh, toaster oven. Um, yeah. 01:02:48.680 |
Somebody who's obsessed with yerba mate, since I was a kid, I've been drinking yerba mate. I love, 01:02:54.040 |
love, love it. As you, as people know, um, fascinated by this. So, um, how much space does one of these 01:03:00.600 |
plants take up? Well, uh, so it, it totally depends. The, uh, uh, I bought mine originally 01:03:07.240 |
as, um, quarter meter tall, um, not exactly seedling because they are bushes and so they, 01:03:15.160 |
they get, uh, lignified pretty quickly. They're, they're more. What's lignified? Sorry. Um, like, 01:03:20.920 |
like a tree. So. Okay. Yeah. Solid, a solid base. Oh, like ligand. Okay. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Um, 01:03:27.160 |
so, uh, and one of the cool things about being alive these days is that, um, it used to be really hard 01:03:37.080 |
to get your hands on these plants, but now it's very easy. You go, go online, you can find many, 01:03:42.200 |
many different sources at many different, uh, maturities. But the, the thing about making tea 01:03:48.200 |
from tea plants is that what you're doing is plucking off the new growth. 01:03:52.920 |
That's what you make tea from. It's not the older leaves. It's the, the very newest ones, 01:03:59.240 |
which are the most metabolically active and have the most interesting stuff in them. 01:04:03.800 |
Interesting for us when we play with them. So, uh, you actually don't want to make tea from 01:04:10.840 |
small plants. You want to let them grow bigger and you can control the, the size from, from then 01:04:18.440 |
on, on up. Um, they're, they're often grown in the shade, uh, for flavor purposes. And so growing them 01:04:26.920 |
in the shade is actually fine. You don't have to have a sunny spot on your, uh, windowsill, 01:04:32.600 |
although it'll grow faster in the sun, but, but shade grown tea is, uh, is actually preferred. 01:04:40.760 |
Um, and then they're, they're a species of camellia. So they're, you know, not that demanding. They, they 01:04:48.120 |
need acidic soil, but apart from that, very easy to grow. I've had mine now for almost 20 years and, 01:04:55.800 |
uh, um, making tea from them is actually a great way to keep them in check. You know, 01:05:01.560 |
otherwise they would take over the yard. Amazing. Um, and then what's, is it called 01:05:07.400 |
tessiography? Do you do that too? The reading of tea leaves? I'm just joking. 01:05:13.960 |
Um, tea leaf reading is a, probably never going to make it onto this podcast and I'll probably upset 01:05:19.880 |
some people, um, by saying that I'm not convinced that reading tea leaves is, is, uh, indicative of 01:05:25.560 |
much. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. I'm glad we're in agreement about that. As long as we're, uh, you know, 01:05:30.120 |
exploring whether, um, longstanding lore within kitchens is, uh, reflective of some real chemistry, 01:05:38.200 |
uh, as was the case with umami or the, the French with eating, uh, salads last, there's this idea 01:05:46.040 |
that you shouldn't have tea at the end of a meal. Is that true? Um, or is it, is it like, uh, that it 01:05:54.520 |
somehow hardens the food in your stomach, or is this just complete, like, uh, is this complete 01:05:59.720 |
nonsense? Sounds to me in the direction of complete nonsense. Great. Cause I like tea at the end of a 01:06:05.240 |
meal. I like chamomile tea after a meal. Well, and herbal teas, especially because I mean, I could, 01:06:11.320 |
I could make a, a just so story about the, the phenolic compounds in tea cross-linking things in 01:06:18.600 |
your stomach or something like that because polyphenols do that, but I can't imagine that it 01:06:25.160 |
makes a difference. So polyphenols cross-link proteins? Yeah. 01:06:29.320 |
Yeah. Yeah. I, for those that aren't familiar, cross-linking proteins is a way of changing their 01:06:33.240 |
configuration and making, generally makes them more rigid when we, in laboratories, when we use fixative, 01:06:39.240 |
like formaldehyde or paraformaldehyde, um, you're taking a tissue, usually a slice of brain tissue, 01:06:44.840 |
which is very floppy and you need to be less floppy so you can work with it. And so you put it into 01:06:49.720 |
paraformaldehyde or formaldehyde or glutaraldehyde. All these things create what are called shift bases. 01:06:54.440 |
Do I have that right? Yeah. Okay. My, I'm remembering my chemistry and they cross-link the 01:06:58.360 |
proteins so that then you can pick that thing up like a, well, it's a very thin slab. I would not 01:07:04.280 |
want to do that to the food in my gut. Right. But nowadays we hear that polyphenols are like the 01:07:09.880 |
greatest thing. So what's the deal with polyphenols? Um, should we consume them separately from proteins? 01:07:16.360 |
Yeah. No, I, I don't think so because the, the thing about polyphenols, the reason that they 01:07:21.080 |
do this cross-linking, uh, is the fact that they're reactive. And what that means is you, 01:07:28.600 |
you put them in with almost anything else and they're going to get bound. And then you're going to 01:07:35.160 |
swallow them, uh, and they're going to, you know, make it down to your lower GI tract. And then 01:07:41.240 |
there they may be, you know, freed up because the, whatever they're bound to gets to be digested and 01:07:47.560 |
so on. But there, it's not a bad thing necessarily. And in fact, it's, it's probably a good thing. 01:07:52.920 |
So, but the, the thing about polyphenols early on in the process, if you think about what would happen 01:07:59.320 |
if, for example, you take milk and add some, uh, wine to it and let it sit, it'll curdle. And that's 01:08:07.160 |
because the polyphenols are cross-linking the, uh, the milk proteins. And so that's basically the kind 01:08:14.040 |
of thing that's happening inside us. Years ago, there was a semi-popular diet. This was in the early 01:08:19.880 |
nineties, um, that argued that you shouldn't combine carbohydrates and proteins, that you should actually 01:08:26.920 |
eat them separately. And I've also heard it said that you want to eat fruit before a meal or away from a 01:08:35.400 |
meal, but not after a meal because it can give you digestive issues. 01:08:39.160 |
I'm sure people differ tremendously in terms of what they can consume. I I'm actually one of these 01:08:44.600 |
people. I, if I have a stomach ache, it means something is seriously wrong. Yeah. I mean, 01:08:48.360 |
I can eat everything except metal shavings and my stomach doesn't hurt. I don't get headaches or 01:08:52.440 |
stomach aches. I get other things, but I don't get those. Some people are very sensitive to food 01:08:56.760 |
combinations. They get stomach aches really easily. So, um, regardless of one sensitivity to different 01:09:03.320 |
foods, are there certain foods that it would make sense to keep them separate if you have digestive 01:09:09.240 |
issues, you know, um, you know, bloating or, um, just like gurgling stomach, this kind of thing or 01:09:16.120 |
worse? Yeah. So, um, my understanding is, well, first of all, I know for a fact that, uh, we have cycled 01:09:24.360 |
through every possible permutation of these theories over the course of the last 150 years, 01:09:31.240 |
um, with no one of them actually being touted now as that the answer. So to me, what that says is there 01:09:41.160 |
is no the answer for this kind of question and that it really does depend on individual physiology 01:09:48.280 |
and what, what people can tolerate, um, for their own particular reasons. I don't think there are any, 01:09:54.600 |
um, principles by which you can choose to, uh, combine or not combine foods, um, that would make 01:10:03.240 |
a difference to your health. Also, it's, um, you know, we're, we're eating so many different things 01:10:09.400 |
so many times a day that, uh, it, I think would be really hard to kind of tease out 01:10:15.800 |
any particular relationships like this. And even if they do exist, they probably exist only for 01:10:23.400 |
subpopulations and not for the world at large. So translated, what I'm hearing is 01:10:30.040 |
you have to figure out what works for you. Doesn't sound like you believe in one particular, um, 01:10:36.840 |
nutrition plan or diet according to any particular science, but it does sound like you leaning toward 01:10:45.320 |
the idea that certain diets for lack of a better word will work better for different people. 01:10:51.400 |
Yeah, I guess I would, I would certainly say that it would depend on the, the individual and I'm, 01:10:57.640 |
I'm not sure that I would buy in necessarily to the idea of an optimal diet in the first place because, 01:11:03.480 |
um, I, unless optimal included, uh, tremendously varied, which is kind of, you know, uh, in a way, 01:11:15.400 |
the opposite of optimal, you know, it's, it's making sure to try, uh, a lot of different things all the 01:11:22.520 |
time rather than hewing to one particular, um, approach. So, um, yeah, I, I think we just don't 01:11:31.480 |
know enough to, to say anything definitive. We talk about the, uh, ever problematic onions and garlic. 01:11:37.880 |
Uh, there's a lot of chemistry around onions and garlic, uh, most notably the crying caused by, 01:11:45.240 |
uh, onions. What is the basis of the crying caused by onions and how do we mitigate it? 01:11:50.680 |
Uh, so, uh, plants in that family, the allium family, uh, so onions and garlic are close relatives. 01:11:58.920 |
Um, they, the way that they defend themselves from animals that might want to eat them, 01:12:06.040 |
and they're not fruits. They're actually roots or, um, root-like structures that are meant to give rise 01:12:13.000 |
to the next generation. So, to the plant, they're very important. They're defended with these sulfur 01:12:19.080 |
molecules that in the intact root are, uh, inactive. But then the moment the tissues are disrupted, 01:12:27.720 |
enzymes get to work and generate from those, uh, uh, precursors, kind of, um, uh, chemical warfare 01:12:36.520 |
cylinders, the, the cylinders are opened and, uh, we end up with these, um, uh, molecules that can fly 01:12:45.480 |
through the air. They're volatile. We don't have to actually touch the, the onion. They, they come to us, 01:12:51.480 |
uh, these molecules, uh, and they're meant to do exactly what they do, which is make us, uh, miserable. 01:12:57.640 |
So, the fact that they're, uh, volatile means that you can, uh, protect yourself by doing a couple of 01:13:06.920 |
different things. You can wear goggles, which present, prevents volatile molecules from getting to your eyes. 01:13:14.440 |
You can do the, uh, the cutting, uh, interspersed with just a rinse and water, 01:13:20.920 |
because that'll, uh, the, the, um, molecules are being generated at the surface that you're 01:13:26.120 |
generating by doing the cutting. So, if occasionally you just rinse those surfaces, then, um, the volatiles 01:13:34.440 |
go away and they don't bother you as much. You can also get, um, um, non-pungent varieties of onions, 01:13:43.000 |
which, which exist. Uh, Maui onions are the, the best known of those, and they just don't make those 01:13:50.200 |
sulfur molecules so that they don't, uh, they don't, uh, irritate us. 01:13:54.440 |
I'm reminded that our colleague at Stanford, um, Dr. Sean Mackey, who runs the pain division, 01:14:02.760 |
when he was on this podcast, he said that despite many years of traditional, uh, training in medicine 01:14:09.160 |
and thinking that a lot of people's reported, uh, gut issues were perhaps psychosomatic and all this stuff, 01:14:16.680 |
he, that he himself had the experience of, um, I think a lot of gut pain at one point in his life, 01:14:22.680 |
just, and not knowing what the origin was. And it seemed like it was after certain meals and not others. 01:14:27.960 |
And he did all the necessary self-experimentation to pinpoint that it was onions that were causing this 01:14:36.040 |
very, that would sound like pretty severe, um, gastric issues and pain. Um, and it was the histamines 01:14:42.280 |
caused by ingesting onions, right? These little packets of molecules that cause inflammation. 01:14:48.200 |
And so, uh, that in part converted into this idea that, you know, when people talk about their, their negative 01:14:54.120 |
experiences with certain foods, that, um, they're not making this stuff up, that it's very likely that 01:15:00.200 |
they have some sort of food sensitivity. And I think now the, the landscape of quote unquote, 01:15:04.760 |
traditional medicine is starting to become more open to this. But, um, and hearing what you just described, 01:15:09.160 |
like these warfare molecules coming out of onions, um, stimulating a negative re they're designed to 01:15:15.640 |
create a, an aversive reaction in animals that would eat them. And here we are eating these things. 01:15:19.480 |
And then the idea that it would be bad for certain people at first seemed like shocking to the standard, 01:15:27.640 |
uh, medical community, but now one of the, you know, leading experts in the, in the world of pain 01:15:33.160 |
medicine is like, Hey, listen, histamines from onions are a problem for people with gut issues. 01:15:38.120 |
Sometimes not always. So I think, um, there's an interesting kind of intersection of, of food 01:15:43.560 |
chemistry, individual experience and where medicine and is headed. It's not crazy. These are chemicals 01:15:51.560 |
coming out of food. Yeah. Makes sense. Yeah, exactly. And maybe the, the most prominent example of an 01:15:57.080 |
aversive chemical being generated in foods that we love is capsaicin in peppers. So hot peppers, the, 01:16:07.080 |
the, the, the, uh, the ones that are spicy are spicy because they contain a particular molecule 01:16:14.040 |
that is designed to be aversive to animals so that animals won't, um, chew up those fruits before the 01:16:21.480 |
seeds can be dispersed. And interestingly, the, the animals that the plant depends on for dispersal 01:16:29.640 |
are birds. And birds don't, uh, uh, respond to capsaicin. They don't have them. Really? Yeah. Yeah. 01:16:36.360 |
So this is a, a molecule that's designed specifically for mammals like us to get us to leave those, 01:16:45.080 |
those, uh, fruits alone. And, um, some people can handle tremendously noxious, 01:16:52.920 |
shall we say, uh, levels of capsaicin and other people are very, very sensitive and, and, um, can't, 01:17:00.840 |
can't handle hardly any. So yeah, it's all part of this, um, this larger picture of the world giving us 01:17:10.360 |
these materials to feed ourselves and are working out our, um, negotiations with those materials 01:17:17.880 |
so that we can enjoy them and be nourished by them. 01:17:20.520 |
I want to explore spiciness a bit more in a moment, but are there any data that there are genetic 01:17:26.520 |
differences, uh, among people in terms of the density of, um, I think the capsaicin receptor 01:17:32.520 |
is a substance P receptor, uh, or something like that, or sweet receptors or umami receptors that would 01:17:38.920 |
perhaps not predict, but partially explain why some people are really averse to spice. Other people 01:17:45.000 |
pursue spice, um, and why some foods perhaps just like don't taste good to certain people or even give 01:17:51.000 |
them a gut issues or, uh, this sort of thing. So the, the best studied, uh, aspect of this is taste rather 01:17:59.640 |
than smell. Smell is difficult because there are so many different receptors and thousands and thousands 01:18:05.400 |
of, uh, uh, smells, but taste is relatively, uh, confined subject. And there are, um, what are called 01:18:14.280 |
super tasters. And this has to do eventually, I'm sure with genetics, but the way this category of 01:18:23.640 |
people was first defined was by simply counting taste buds on the tongue. So they, they had a particular 01:18:31.720 |
area in which they could look and they stained the, the taste buds and then simply counted them, 01:18:37.560 |
enumerated them on, uh, thousands of different people. And what they found was, as you might expect, 01:18:44.360 |
uh, there are some people with very, very few in a given area and others where they're so crowded 01:18:50.760 |
together, you can barely count them. Wow. So high pixel density, low pixel density. Some people have the 01:18:56.760 |
iPhone one, some people have the iPhone, whatever we're on now of, uh, 16 or something or 13, uh, 01:19:02.920 |
density. Wow. Yeah. Yeah. So clearly that's going to affect the way you experience whatever you put 01:19:09.720 |
in your mouth. And, um, uh, they, the investigators gave the name super taster to the people who had the 01:19:19.720 |
highest density of, um, um, of receptors. It's unfortunate because, you know, the, the term does 01:19:27.560 |
have, um, connotations that are, that really don't belong. It's just some people have lots of taste 01:19:35.080 |
receptors and other people don't have very many. Well, I guess the question is, do the people who 01:19:39.720 |
have higher density of taste receptors have better taste discrimination? Can they tell two, uh, foods apart or 01:19:46.200 |
beverages apart on a dimension of say sweetness that somebody with lower, uh, density receptors can't? 01:19:52.440 |
So that's a really good question. And, um, my, uh, I, I don't know exactly the answer to that, 01:20:00.600 |
but what I do know is that, um, you would think that super tasters sounds great. That's what I want 01:20:06.680 |
is to be able to taste more. In fact, super tasters are, uh, especially sensitive to bitterness and to 01:20:15.240 |
acidity to the point that, uh, foods that other people enjoy just fine, they find aversive simply 01:20:22.520 |
because the, the sensation is overwhelming. So I used to teach a course at the French Culinary Institute, 01:20:29.160 |
no longer with us, uh, in New York. And we would often have chefs in the, uh, course along with just 01:20:37.880 |
ordinary people. And we would do a, a taste test to, a proxy for counting the number of taste buds. You can 01:20:46.680 |
give people, uh, a very bitter substance at a, at a known level on a little piece of filter paper and then 01:20:54.680 |
ask people to rate, does this taste extremely bitter, kind of bitter or what, what bitter. Um, 01:21:03.560 |
and, uh, the chefs would always be, uh, upset if they did not score as super tasters because super means, 01:21:14.840 |
you know, you're, you're a really good taster, but, um, talk to them and you find out that, um, 01:21:22.360 |
it's often difficult for chefs, uh, to kind of match the flavor preferences of their customers. 01:21:31.560 |
And one of the reasons for that can be that if you're a super taster as a chef, you're going to dial 01:21:37.720 |
down all kinds of things that, uh, to an ordinary taster may leave the food tasting bland. 01:21:45.320 |
So, um, it's something that, uh, there, there is no right thing to be, but if you're a professional 01:21:51.320 |
in the food world, you need to know what you are and how to compensate for it if you, if you need to. 01:21:57.880 |
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science and simplicity and at the level of cost. It is very affordable. As a consequence, I decided to 01:23:24.200 |
join their scientific advisory board and I'm thrilled that they're sponsoring the podcast. If you'd like to 01:23:29.240 |
try Function, you can go to functionhealth.com/huberman. Function currently has a wait list of over 250,000 01:23:35.640 |
people, but they're offering early access to Huberman podcast listeners. Again, that's functionhealth.com/huberman to get early access to Function. 01:23:44.920 |
Function. Do you salt your fruit? A few years ago, there was this like a trend of salting fruit. Remember 01:23:51.800 |
that? I tried it. I love fruit. I love salt. I wasn't such a fan of salting fruit, but I don't want to dismiss 01:24:01.080 |
it right off the bat. Does it do anything interesting to fruit in a way that should have me return to that? 01:24:05.720 |
Yeah. No, I think it's a completely individual thing. My grandmother would salt her grapefruit. 01:24:12.840 |
Oh yeah. Oh no, we would put sugar on our grapefruit when we were kids. Sucrose. 01:24:17.640 |
So she would salt her grapefruit. She would salt her grapefruit and it turns out, we know now, that in fact, 01:24:24.920 |
salt and bitter are kind of opposing sensations and you can actually diminish the sensation of bitterness 01:24:34.520 |
by upping the salt. So she was making it less bitter without adding sugar, which to her was important. 01:24:44.040 |
she used the artificial sweetener of the day in her tea in the morning. That's interesting. I know people 01:24:54.200 |
who put a tiny, tiny bit of salt in their coffee to, according to them, take the edge off, meaning to 01:25:01.880 |
take the bitterness out. It makes sense. Yeah. Based on the chemistry, this push-pull of bitter and salty, 01:25:08.760 |
salty tastes. Yeah. Pretty much everything in the nervous system is push-pull. 01:25:12.760 |
Yeah. And that, that goes, by the way, for things like beer. Uh, some people will add a pinch of, uh, 01:25:20.200 |
salt to their beer. The only place in the world where I enjoy beer is, um, in Munich where they serve 01:25:29.000 |
beer. Well, maybe it's the schnitzel that they're, it's, you know, I love that stuff. Um, but they'll come 01:25:35.480 |
around with a heater and they'll heat your beer so that it's room temperature. 01:25:43.640 |
And it completely changes the taste. The bubbles are small in those beers. Uh, they taste to me just a 01:25:50.120 |
little bit sweeter. And, um, I asked them about this and, and the idea that you would drink a cold beer 01:25:57.400 |
to them was like, what are you talking about? I mean, you might as well tell an American that they should, 01:26:02.200 |
um, have their apple pie with, um, with, uh, spaghetti on top or something. It's crazy. 01:26:09.640 |
Let's talk about alcohol, even though I'm not a drinker. Uh, I know people enjoy a little bit of 01:26:14.840 |
wine or spirits or, or beer. And I'm, I'm supposed as long as people aren't alcoholics and they're of 01:26:20.520 |
age, like, you know, uh, small amounts of consumption are, are, are, uh, probably okay. Um, zero is better. 01:26:29.080 |
But, um, so let's talk about wine and beer. What's the, the brief history on, on this? When do people 01:26:36.040 |
start fermenting fruit and hops and, um, and, and this whole business of creating poison to ingest, 01:26:44.600 |
um, because it tastes good and gets them, uh, a little bit inebriated? What, what, what is this? 01:26:49.960 |
So, um, this is actually an, an area where we're learning more every year because people are, 01:26:59.240 |
especially archeological sites are pushing dates back and so on and finding evidence for this kind of 01:27:05.000 |
thing that the, the, the ability to detect, uh, residues in pots as, uh, as just amazing these 01:27:13.000 |
days. But, um, my guess is, and it's been argued that, um, we have been enjoying alcohol since before we 01:27:23.400 |
were homo sapiens. Really? Yes. That primates, in fact, uh, when you observe them will go after, uh, 01:27:33.960 |
fermenting fruit and enjoy it and, you know, seek out and pick those fruits and not, not others. 01:27:41.160 |
And I bet, uh, I, it's not a literature I keep up with, but I bet that there are some behavioral studies 01:27:48.680 |
as well to, to suggest whether or not the, uh, ingestion of the fruit is actually having an effect 01:27:56.680 |
on their coordination for example. I, I bet there are studies like that. Um, so we've been enjoying, 01:28:03.960 |
um, alcohol before we were homo sapiens. And in the archeological record, uh, the dates have been pushed 01:28:13.720 |
back now to the, the very beginnings of agriculture. And in many different places. So China, uh, the 01:28:23.000 |
Middle East, um, it's just, um, an attractive, uh, possibility, uh, which probably did simply start with, 01:28:33.880 |
um, you know, collecting a bunch of fruit, not getting around to eating it right away. And, you know, 01:28:39.720 |
it's beginning to smell interesting and you try it and it does things. Humans daring other humans to try 01:28:47.320 |
things. Which I think is also, by the way, uh, how chocolate was discovered, uh, or the, the possibilities 01:28:55.960 |
for chocolate. So cacao beans are the seeds in a fruit. And the current thinking is that, um, 01:29:04.040 |
the fruits were gathered for the fruit and the seeds, which are large, were simply thrown in a pile 01:29:12.040 |
near the, near the fire. And, uh, there, there were enough residues of the fruit on the seeds for 01:29:19.240 |
those residues to ferment. And that's the first step in making chocolate. 01:29:23.480 |
So with respect to alcohol, um, I mean, alcohol is, as you mentioned, a long history. Um, I've heard 01:29:32.920 |
it said that despite so much fascination and money spent on different wines, depending on, uh, the make 01:29:41.000 |
and the label and the year in particular and how the grapes were that year, depending on how the 01:29:46.920 |
weather was that year and the soil. And, you know, so much goes into this and a huge industry. Um, but 01:29:52.760 |
every once in a while, there'll be a study published where they'll do a blind taste test and some of the 01:29:59.320 |
the most experienced, um, AKA expert, uh, wine drinkers won't be able to discern, uh, the finest 01:30:08.440 |
wine or near finest wine from a far more trivial, inexpensive wine. And that always seems to send 01:30:14.600 |
everyone into disarray for a couple of weeks. And then everyone goes right back to, um, distributing 01:30:19.880 |
their wine consumption according to their income and what they perceive to be the better wine. 01:30:27.640 |
It's kind of a wild, um, foray into human psychology. Like if this is true that these 01:30:35.400 |
expert wine drinkers can't discern like a $20 bottle of wine from a $2,000 bottle of wine, 01:30:40.360 |
and yet they insist on returning to the, the practice of preferentially buying and consuming 01:30:46.840 |
more expensive wines if they have the means. I mean, that says all sorts of things about humans and the 01:30:52.440 |
way we place value on things. But I want to know, are the more expensive wines actually truly better 01:31:00.200 |
from the perspective of taste? And, um, through the lens of, uh, let's just say a, uh, a novice and an 01:31:07.640 |
expert wine drinker, what's the deal? Yeah. Yeah. Uh, so this I think is, uh, really complicated in all kinds of 01:31:18.200 |
interesting ways. Um, and I think to begin with, uh, it's true that people have, uh, done things like, 01:31:26.520 |
um, serve red wines, expensive red wines alongside white wines that had been dyed red and asked people, 01:31:36.840 |
asked, asked experts to, uh, to judge them and comment on them and the experts being fooled by the, 01:31:44.760 |
by the food coloring. So I think it's, it's in large part to begin with a matter of what we're expecting 01:31:55.240 |
to happen when we taste something. Uh, and, uh, if we have expectations, then those expectations are going to 01:32:04.760 |
influence our perception. Uh, and there are a couple of wonderful books by, uh, uh, a neurobiologist named 01:32:12.760 |
Gordon Shepard on exactly this, uh, these subjects. Um, so it's, it's a, it's a, uh, um, a complicated loop. 01:32:23.320 |
We, we have expectations, we taste something, the expectations play into what we think we experience, 01:32:30.920 |
uh, and our conclusions from that experience, uh, which is no knock on the wines. It's just 01:32:38.760 |
the, the fact of, and, uh, our, our imperfect nature as sensory beings. Uh, then when it comes to 01:32:47.000 |
the wines themselves and the kind of variation that you find, uh, from, uh, from different kinds of wine, 01:32:56.920 |
of wine makers, locations, uh, weather, treatment during the winemaking process, all, all those 01:33:04.920 |
different things. Um, if you work at it, you can train yourself to notice minute differences, 01:33:12.840 |
just as you can train yourself to notice minute differences in all kinds of other things that, 01:33:19.320 |
that we care about, uh, art connoisseurship, for example, you know, is, uh, knowing something about 01:33:26.440 |
the history of art and, uh, and about the materials and that kind of thing, they all play into our judgment. 01:33:34.040 |
And what we're talking about when we're talking about the, the, uh, whether a wine is better than 01:33:41.560 |
another, it's a judgment. And, uh, uh, I think the more you know about, uh, if you, if you care to know, 01:33:48.840 |
the more you know about, uh, a particular, uh, material, the better you're able to either appreciate 01:33:56.920 |
it or depreciate it, uh, depending. And wine is just fascinating material. I mean, it's, uh, it's, 01:34:05.160 |
it's, um, made every year from all kinds of different grapes in all kinds of different parts 01:34:11.880 |
of the world, uh, by all kinds of different people. And, uh, they all taste kind of different, 01:34:19.000 |
um, depending on all those different factors. And if you're interested in those kinds of, um, uh, 01:34:26.360 |
distinctions, and if you get pleasure from taking a sip and saying, ah, yeah, it was a, that was a warm 01:34:32.040 |
year in that, in that vineyard and tastes a little riper than the other bottle that I 01:34:36.920 |
have in my cellar, that's, that's great. That means you're, you know, using your human capacities 01:34:43.400 |
to the utmost. Um, if you're just drinking to drink, not so much. Um, so I think it depends on the, 01:34:51.880 |
not only the, the product, but the, but the consumer. 01:34:56.120 |
Mm-hmm. Like so many domains of life, it sounds like, uh, curiosity, uh, lends itself to a deeper 01:35:03.720 |
and better relationship with something. A guest on this podcast who himself was a comedian, um, 01:35:09.960 |
said exactly what you said. He said, um, which is only to say that you agree, uh, 01:35:15.960 |
that the more you learn about something, the way a movie was made or visual art or a song, 01:35:23.320 |
the more you come to appreciate it. It, with one exception, comedy. You either think something's 01:35:29.080 |
funny or not. You could learn, you could learn about the process that comedian went through, 01:35:33.560 |
you could learn about the context, and if it's not funny to you, it's not going to become funny. 01:35:37.880 |
So it seems to be like one exception in the universe of experiences. But, uh, even though we 01:35:43.080 |
weren't talking about food, I think he would totally agree with you, um, on this point. 01:35:48.840 |
Which is a perfect segue for my next question, which is about cheese. When you walk into a cheese shop 01:35:55.960 |
in, say, Denmark or in Northern Europe, do you like it or do you feel overwhelmed? Because 01:36:04.280 |
for those who have, they know it's intense. Yeah. That's one of my favorite things, actually. Um, 01:36:13.240 |
something that I learned to like, uh, when our family lived in France for a year, 01:36:19.400 |
and I decided, uh, you know, the French make a lot of cheese, I should learn something about that. 01:36:25.480 |
And I, I went to, uh, a little trailer at one of the farmer mark, farmers markets in the little 01:36:33.400 |
village we were living in. And in my broken French said, I was, I would like to learn about cheese. 01:36:40.280 |
I got like a 10 minute lecture on how Americans could never appreciate cheese properly. But then, 01:36:47.000 |
okay, I'll, I'll tutor you. And so, and I had a wonderful year long, uh, uh, uh, 01:36:54.280 |
uh, just every, every week, uh, a session with this cheese maker who was bringing, she herself did not 01:37:04.920 |
make, uh, most of the cheeses she sold, but she would sell what was proper seasonally for that, um, 01:37:12.600 |
for that place. Anyway, I learned a tremendous amount, fell in love with the, the diversity, 01:37:18.920 |
uh, you know, starting with basically the same material, maybe two or three different animals, 01:37:24.280 |
kinds of milks, but starting with the same bland material and ending up with this tremendous range of 01:37:30.680 |
flavors is, uh, I think a tribute to human ingenuity to, to be able to come up with that kind of, uh, 01:37:37.960 |
diversity. How long has cheese been, um, made and consumed by humans? 01:37:42.920 |
Uh, since apparently very early in the domestication of animals, maybe even before animals were fully 01:37:52.040 |
domesticated. So again, we're talking 7,000, 8,000 years ago in the, in the case of dairy products, 01:38:01.320 |
that's pretty much in the, in the, um, Central Asian area. Can we talk about the chemistry of cheese 01:38:07.800 |
and fermentation? Sure. Yeah. First, a question about a specific cheese. Uh, if one looks online, 01:38:15.400 |
um, which is always a dangerous thing to do, uh, if you're in search of real information, you have to 01:38:20.280 |
be very discerning. Um, there's this idea that certain cheeses, in particular Parmesan cheeses, 01:38:26.920 |
are so rich with the amino acid tyrosine that they create, uh, because tyrosine is the amino acid 01:38:32.920 |
precursor to dopamine that they create, um, a mild high of sorts. Um, now this of course could also 01:38:40.280 |
be that people just really enjoy the taste or both. Yeah. But it makes sense at some level. What's known 01:38:46.280 |
about the chemistry of cheeses and, um, the experience of cheeses? Yeah. Well, so the, the, 01:38:52.120 |
the, the, the thing that makes cheese much more interesting than milk is the fact that, um, microbes 01:39:00.680 |
have been living in it and on it for, um, weeks or months or years and slowly breaking down the proteins 01:39:11.320 |
and the fats and generating these small molecules that we were talking about before that have flavor, 01:39:18.200 |
that, uh, that give us the sensations of taste and smell. The longer that process goes on, for the most 01:39:25.960 |
part, the more of those breakdown products there are and the richer and more, more varied the flavor is. 01:39:33.320 |
Now you can sometimes get very strong flavored cheeses very quickly. Uh, Camembert is an example of, uh, 01:39:41.240 |
cheese like that where you, um, in the cheese making process essentially encourage the changes to happen 01:39:48.680 |
very rapidly. But if you, um, dial back on the process and let it take longer, you end up with a much more 01:39:57.640 |
more diverse, uh, array of, uh, array of molecules. And in the case of Parmesan and the, those crystals that 01:40:06.200 |
you end up with in cheeses that are two, three years old, um, uh, which are crunchy and kind of, uh, 01:40:14.600 |
they're the, the, the sign of authenticity, you know, that the, the, this cheese is actually that old 01:40:20.200 |
and, uh, it's worth paying double the price that you would pay for a young version. Um, those are, uh, 01:40:28.520 |
usually, uh, tyrosine or other amino acid, um, um, derivatives that are, uh, that have been broken 01:40:39.800 |
off of the protein chains. And then because the cheese has slowly been dehydrating, 01:40:46.760 |
uh, they've become insoluble and begin to crystallize out. And so that's why they're a 01:40:53.000 |
sign of, um, uh, uh, of the process of aging and also the, the time of aging. Um, the thing about it 01:41:01.080 |
though, and the, the, for me, the question mark is, uh, that tyrosine was there already in the proteins. 01:41:11.080 |
And so is having it crystallize out somehow making it more immediately available to have 01:41:19.080 |
an effect on us? Uh, you know, we don't have to digest the protein anymore now. It just, you know, 01:41:24.760 |
pops right into us the moment we put it in our mouths. Maybe that has something to do with, uh, 01:41:31.640 |
the effect that people are reporting. When smoke flavors are added to cheese, is it through actual 01:41:38.280 |
smoking process? Yes. If it's authentic? Yeah. If it's authentic, yeah. The cheeses have been, 01:41:44.040 |
um, kept in a room with, uh, something smoldering. And that was often in the, uh, old, old days and 01:41:53.000 |
still to some extent these days, kind of like, um, curing hams. Uh, bugs are going to want to, uh, enjoy 01:42:01.400 |
that really rich, nutritious material. And so you have to ward them off and smoke is a good way to do 01:42:06.760 |
it. Ah, that makes sense. So to keep bugs away, you fill the room with smoke and then you end up with 01:42:11.880 |
food that tastes smoky. Yeah. And then you tell people that it tastes good. I'm not a fan of smoke. 01:42:17.480 |
I don't know why. Uh, yeah. Maybe it's because most smoky flavors seem to come from a kind of a, 01:42:23.320 |
it tastes chemical to me. It doesn't taste like smoke. It tastes like, uh, it's like, um, smoke 01:42:28.920 |
generated from, uh, um, drywall mixed with, uh, some styrofoam. It doesn't, it doesn't, it's not, 01:42:36.280 |
it's not like a nice, uh, organic in the real sense of the word, um, natural flavor to me. It tastes 01:42:44.120 |
chemical. Yeah. Yeah. No, I, I know exactly what you mean. And I also think that most smoked foods are 01:42:50.200 |
over smoked, you know, that, that ends up being the only flavor that the food has. 01:42:55.080 |
And instead of being a kind of in the background, uh, flavor. So. And what about in bourbons and 01:43:01.720 |
things like that, where people get really excited about a smoky bourbon, is that, um, why would you 01:43:06.760 |
do that? Because I can't imagine that the bugs that we're going to get into, well, bugs like ferment, 01:43:12.200 |
right? Is that right? Yeah. Actually, one great way to attract bugs to your picnic is to have vinegar 01:43:19.240 |
there. They love. Yes. The smell of vinegar. Yeah. Yeah. So in the case of, um, uh, barrels for 01:43:28.920 |
distilled beverages, that's, uh, uh, as far as I can tell, just a completely cultural thing, you know, 01:43:36.840 |
that, um, in order to make barrels, you have to, uh, heat them in order to make the wood pliable. 01:43:44.760 |
And probably someone in the process of making barrels discovered that if you, you know, if it 01:43:50.360 |
burns out of control for a few seconds, that may be not such a bad thing 10 years down the line. So, 01:43:56.440 |
um, um, it's certainly not essential to the flavor of, uh, uh, of alcohols. And a lot, uh, uh, for 01:44:03.080 |
example, um, um, whiskies may, may be marketed as having been aged in used sherry casks. So you don't 01:44:14.200 |
get the, the toasting that you get if you're making fresh barrels. So I, I think it's, it's a matter of 01:44:20.920 |
taste and, and also just the, the skill which, with which that flavor has been incorporated into 01:44:27.480 |
whatever the, the food or drink is. On the topic of fermentation, our colleague, I assume you've 01:44:34.520 |
mentioned a lot of our colleagues, but we've got a lot of spectacular colleagues at Stanford at Justin 01:44:38.520 |
Sonnenberg. And to be fair, his wife, Erica has also contributed critically to this work, 01:44:44.440 |
have, uh, made discoveries essentially that consuming low sugar fermented foods on a daily 01:44:50.040 |
basis can lower inflammation, uh, markers of inflammation, even more so than increasing 01:44:57.400 |
one's fiber intake, which is itself interesting. What have you learned about fermentation chemistry, 01:45:02.600 |
fermentation as a, as a human practice, um, for health benefits, sure for taste, but just as a thing, 01:45:09.960 |
fermentation is a pretty, pretty wild thing that we would do this. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Well, so I, uh, 01:45:16.600 |
my sense is that it began, um, we were talking earlier about, uh, about alcohol began with just 01:45:23.960 |
observation. You, um, have fruits that are overripe and they're sitting on the forest floor and they sit 01:45:31.240 |
long enough and they begin to smell different and look different and fizz and all kinds of things. And that's, 01:45:37.960 |
that's interesting. So, um, I, my sense is that fermentation has been discovered essentially 01:45:45.000 |
by every population on the, uh, on the earth, including the, the Arctic where you think it might 01:45:52.760 |
take a while for things to go on. But in fact, um, products that are translated into English as 01:46:00.600 |
extinct fish are among the most prized of the, of the foods in the Inuit, um, regions of the, of the 01:46:09.960 |
pole. How do they prepare this stink fish? Uh, essentially by, uh, letting it sit. 01:46:16.600 |
So that's one of the appeals of fermentation is you don't have to do a whole lot. You just, uh, catch the 01:46:24.040 |
food, whatever it is and, um, uh, put it in a container of some kind. Uh, some sting fish are 01:46:31.640 |
made simply by digging a pit and burying it and covering it over. Um, and then there's, there's a 01:46:37.800 |
connoisseurship of, of these foods. Um, it's a lot of fun actually to go back and read the accounts of 01:46:45.640 |
explorers to these regions. And, uh, the locals are, you know, uh, trying to show the greatest 01:46:53.240 |
hospitality by serving them foods that they can't bear even to get near, uh, uh, salmon eggs, another 01:47:01.560 |
example, highly prized, uh, but after they'd been fermented, so. This is caviar. Yeah. Yeah. 01:47:09.160 |
One of the most expensive foods on the planet. Exactly. Exactly. And not just for, um, 01:47:15.000 |
kind of for show reasons. I mean, the, the omega-3 content of caviar is like off the charts and the, 01:47:22.920 |
um, there are other micronutrients in, in caviar that make it, this is like the, these are the 01:47:29.400 |
sturgeon eggs typically, right? Yes. Yeah, that's right. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Which, uh, production of 01:47:36.040 |
which almost disappeared 20 years ago and now is booming because people are now farming these fish, uh, the, the 01:47:44.280 |
fish were endangered. Uh, they're now farming them all over the place and trying, uh, caviar from 01:47:51.000 |
different species that had never been tried before. So, um, uh, that's actually part of, um, what I would 01:48:00.120 |
say about fermentation these days as well is that once, um, um, the, the formerly isolated populations 01:48:11.720 |
on the earth began communicating with each other and sharing expertise and sharing knowledge of these 01:48:19.160 |
materials, which has happened, of course, um, hugely in the last 20 years or so. Um, local, traditional ways of doing 01:48:29.480 |
things have now not only spread to other parts of the world, but gotten people to ask the question, 01:48:36.200 |
well, if you can do this kind of fermentation with this raw material, what about doing it with 01:48:43.080 |
a different raw material? Um, so, uh, you know, miso was traditionally made with soybeans. 01:48:50.600 |
Now it's being made with peas in, in, uh, northern Europe and just on and on and on. Um, uh, which I think is 01:49:00.360 |
both tremendously difficult to keep up with, but also tremendously exciting because it means that 01:49:06.280 |
we're now, um, seeing how traditional food materials can be transformed by the action of microbes that we've, 01:49:17.800 |
we kind of know about, but only know about in very specific, uh, contexts. Uh, and so I, I think the 01:49:26.680 |
next couple of decades are going to bring forth, uh, just all kinds of new foods that will be initially 01:49:34.280 |
strange and maybe off-putting because they're new, but also they're going to be, you know, this, 01:49:41.320 |
this era's, um, versions of miso and, uh, soy sauce and beer and wine and so on. 01:49:51.160 |
So exciting times ahead. Yeah. We, we forget that we're still evolving, 01:49:56.040 |
you know, especially when we hear about all the problems of the world, we forget that we're still 01:50:00.680 |
evolving and that some of the technologies around food and drink are not just creating less healthy 01:50:05.960 |
versions. But as you pointed out, are, are creating new, new hybrids of information, 01:50:11.240 |
new hybrids of actual foods. It's not all about returning to ancient ways. You know, 01:50:16.280 |
the conversations like this of slowing down and, and, uh, one's intake of food and chewing and 01:50:21.240 |
appreciating and, um, thinking about preparation of food, not just eating out of packages. One hopes, 01:50:27.480 |
um, people, I think if there's one thing that the vegans, the vegetarians, the omnivores and the 01:50:33.080 |
carnivores all agree on is that eating fewer processed foods is better. That's the one thing 01:50:39.000 |
they all seem to agree on. Yeah. Um, I have a question about you. Uh, actually I have several 01:50:43.880 |
questions about you, which is what motivated this exploration into, into food and chemistry? I mean, 01:50:51.080 |
you're taking a very different approach to all of this. Um, I should point out that your original 01:50:56.840 |
training at Caltech was in astronomy. Then you shifted to another field and then you ended up in 01:51:02.440 |
this field of, of food science slash chemistry. Um, you know, a lot about poetry. So, um, 01:51:10.200 |
I don't think I've ever met anyone with that background. You are clearly an N of one, as we say, 01:51:17.400 |
what, what got you into this whole thing? And, and, and more importantly, perhaps what motivates you? 01:51:23.880 |
Like what's, what's, where's the, the, the texture of interest? Yeah. Is it like to taste as many 01:51:29.800 |
things as possible or is it to link levels of analysis? What, what is it? That last question 01:51:35.000 |
is a really good one. I'll have to, I'll think about that as I answered the first parts. So yeah, 01:51:39.800 |
I started out, uh, in love with science and with astronomy in particular and, you know, built a telescope. And, 01:51:46.600 |
uh, uh, uh, I still look up at Orion every time it's in the sky and the, and the skies are clear. Um, 01:51:55.640 |
went to Caltech to do astronomy, decided after a couple of years there that the, um, the physics 01:52:06.040 |
was just not enough of a motivator for me to keep going. The physics had, at that point had gotten 01:52:12.680 |
pretty, um, hairy for me. And so I decided, you know, I'm, I, I still love to look at the stars, 01:52:20.040 |
but maybe I'm not gonna do astronomy. I then looked around for other things and the people I, I had always 01:52:28.040 |
loved the humanities, poetry and novels in particular. Uh, I was going to transfer to Stanford actually. 01:52:37.560 |
And my, uh, literature professors at Caltech, and there were a few, um, convinced me to stay. And they 01:52:46.440 |
said, what you can do is you can stay with us, cherry pick the science, because you don't have to take as 01:52:52.120 |
much anymore. And we'll get you a desk at the Huntington Library and the research library and 01:52:58.520 |
we'll, we'll give you tutorials and we'll take care of you. And that's exactly what happened. It was a 01:53:05.080 |
fantastic, uh, uh, education that still included plenty of science, but it was on my terms and not the, 01:53:12.440 |
not the discipline's terms. Uh, and then I went off to graduate school in literature, uh, having been, 01:53:21.240 |
um, uh, inspired by my teachers at Caltech, did a degree there, uh, on the poetry of John Keats, 01:53:30.440 |
uh, and then couldn't get a job teaching. And so my, um, my mentors back at Caltech and also 01:53:40.840 |
at, in, uh, graduate school said, well, you know, you have the science in your background, 01:53:44.840 |
you should do something with that. And, um, long story short, conversations with friends over 01:53:51.960 |
the dinner table and drinking wine and so on. Um, a question came up, why is it that beans give you gas? 01:54:02.920 |
And, uh, we all laughed. I laughed. And then I went to the library 01:54:07.640 |
and I found out why. And I came back and told my friends and we had a good laugh. And then I thought, 01:54:14.680 |
maybe, I mean, people are interested in food and this is kind of a fun fact about food that 01:54:21.000 |
most people don't know. Maybe I can do this kind of thing. Uh, so I, I began to look a little more 01:54:28.840 |
into it and then in the meantime, a scout for one of the publishing houses in New York had a girlfriend 01:54:37.080 |
who was in the same group and she reported to him. He reported to the publisher. Publisher called up out 01:54:43.960 |
of the blue and said, we hear you're writing a book about the science of food. And so from that moment on, 01:54:50.760 |
I was writing a book about the science of food. I said, yes, I am. Yes. Uh, what, why do we get gas from 01:54:57.640 |
beans and is it true that soaking them in water prior to cooking them can, uh, remove some of that, 01:55:03.240 |
uh, untoward effect? So it turns out that the, the answer was discovered by scientists working for NASA. 01:55:12.840 |
And if you think about NASA and their missions back in the seventies, you can understand why they would 01:55:19.960 |
want to control something like this. So, uh, it turns out that beans contain, in addition to, uh, starch and 01:55:29.480 |
sugars, uh, kind of intermediate sized, uh, carbohydrates that our bodies do not have the enzymes to break down 01:55:38.760 |
into sugars. So we can take care of starch, but, but not these, uh, intermediate sized molecules. And so they 01:55:46.520 |
pass into our gut unchanged and then we have plenty of microbes who are happy to see those and, and, uh, 01:55:53.640 |
digest them. And in the process they produce CO2 and hydrogen gas and that's what we end up experiencing. 01:56:02.440 |
So the way to deal with that is to, uh, soaking the beans will work, um, that, uh, leaches out some of these 01:56:12.200 |
molecules, which are small and so soluble in water. Um, even more effective is to actually bring that 01:56:20.600 |
water after it's been soaking to a boil and then pour that water off that, that will get rid of more. 01:56:27.400 |
But the other point I would make about these, uh, so-called oligosaccharides is these days we value, 01:56:34.440 |
uh, the life in our lower tract. And these are the creatures that those molecules are in fact feeding. 01:56:44.280 |
So, and it has been shown that you can, you can, uh, or your system can kind of adapt. Uh, so yeah, 01:56:52.760 |
the first few times you have, uh, uh, um, beans or light lentils or whatever it might be, um, 01:57:01.080 |
you may have some discomfort, but the more frequently you eat it, the better you're able to 01:57:07.320 |
tolerate it or your, your system is able to tolerate it without generating the, the discomfort. 01:57:14.040 |
Yeah, that seems to be a repeating theme, which is that the more we eat certain foods, the more our 01:57:20.440 |
gut microbiome adapts to those foods. I think that we're just at the beginning of understanding 01:57:26.360 |
the gut microbiome, but it's such a key player. So what, um, do you make it a point to eat fermented 01:57:33.880 |
foods? Um, given what you know about the microbiome, what are your favorite fermented foods or drinks? 01:57:39.720 |
Yeah. Um, I, uh, have learned to like kimchi. So that was not initially, uh, a food that I sought out, 01:57:49.720 |
but I, I've really come to like it. Um, and, um, uh, you know, that, that may really be the only, 01:57:58.360 |
uh, unusual fermented food that I seek out. I mean, I, um, I love fruits and vegetables and, and legumes and 01:58:08.920 |
eat lots of those and kind of figure that, you know, things will take care of themselves down 01:58:14.520 |
there for the most part. But, uh, kimchi is something I've come to love. 01:58:17.880 |
Yeah. I haven't quite gotten to the kimchi thing. I think it's because a few years ago, 01:58:23.400 |
I brought it into my lab when I was in San Diego and my entire lab complained, except one person, 01:58:29.720 |
my Korean student who absolutely loved it. So I think some of these things are, are acquired early in 01:58:36.680 |
life. And that's a question I was going to ask earlier. Do you think that when young kids in 01:58:41.880 |
particular, like don't want broccoli or they, um, don't want certain foods that it's reflecting an 01:58:48.440 |
actual real aversion that's based on something important about their chemistry? 01:58:54.680 |
Yeah. Yeah. So my, uh, again, the, I don't think the literature is clear, but my sense based on having 01:59:02.440 |
had a couple of kids go through this and just thinking it through, uh, I, I think what's going 01:59:10.840 |
on is that kids have a heightened sense of taste and smell. Um, and very early in development, they're, 01:59:19.080 |
um, omnivorous though they're, they'll put anything in their mouths. Then at a certain point, they become 01:59:25.720 |
much more conservative. And, um, and I think also much more sensitive to nuances, you know, the, the sulfurousness 01:59:34.760 |
of broccoli and that kind of thing. So, um, but I think it's also, uh, both temporary and, uh, you can work 01:59:43.960 |
with it. So in the case of our kids, uh, we just made our regular dinners every, every day. Um, and we would 01:59:53.400 |
say to our kids, you're welcome to eat as much or as little, uh, what we have as you want, but this is 02:00:00.280 |
what we have. And there was one food that neither my son or daughter could tolerate. And we ended up just 02:00:09.720 |
deciding, okay, that's literally off the table. You don't have to worry about this one. And it was, um, 02:00:17.080 |
amaranth leaves. Whoa. Uh, which I was growing in the garden. Cause you know, I'm trying to learn 02:00:23.080 |
about everything and, uh, and they're interesting. Uh, but they have a very particular texture and it 02:00:29.160 |
was the texture that they just, you know, it made them gag and I didn't want to put them through that. 02:00:34.680 |
So fair. So it wasn't just saying, I don't like this. It was, they were trying. If nothing else, 02:00:41.320 |
one can still thrive, uh, in life without having eaten amaranth leaves. Is it true that some people 02:00:47.480 |
like, and some people loathe cilantro because they taste different things in the cilantro? 02:00:53.000 |
Like the experience of cilantro is fundamentally different for some people than others. I like it. 02:00:57.400 |
My father, he, he hates it. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So cilantro is a really interesting case. And, um, 02:01:05.400 |
the subject of, uh, series of, uh, studies at the Monell Chemical Census Center. Uh, they were, 02:01:13.400 |
they, uh, in addition to all kinds of other things would go to local county fairs 02:01:17.640 |
and ask people, ask, first of all, for twins. If, if they saw twins on the grounds, 02:01:25.880 |
they would bring them over to the booth and ask them both to taste, uh, cilantro and, and say what they 02:01:31.960 |
thought. Bottom line is, um, uh, cilantro has molecules that, uh, kind of, uh, I was going to 02:01:40.680 |
say cross-react. That's not exactly it. They, they're also found in soaps. And so for a lot of people, 02:01:48.520 |
depending on whether they've been acculturated to cilantro early in their lives or not, 02:01:53.400 |
if they're only encountering it as an adult, the first thing they're going to think is, 02:01:58.520 |
that tastes like soap. I don't want to put that in my mouth. Uh, unless, you know, you're in company 02:02:04.520 |
where it's important to go along with the, with the gang. Um, so there's a good, uh, basis for 02:02:11.960 |
this kind of divergent set of reactions, but it has more to do with the, the cultural appearance of those 02:02:20.520 |
same flavor molecules than with the material itself. I see. So for those of you that don't like cilantro, 02:02:27.560 |
you can, uh, cite this, uh, discussion. I have a colleague at, uh, Harvard, um, Catherine Duloc, 02:02:35.000 |
who studies the olfactory system. You're probably familiar with Catherine's work. Yeah. And, um, she's 02:02:39.800 |
French, uh, as the last name suggests. And she would tell this story about different students and postdocs in 02:02:47.080 |
her lab who come from a variety of different countries, um, being split down the middle in 02:02:54.520 |
terms of their experience of microwave popcorn that some people in her lab like love the smell of 02:03:01.640 |
microwave popcorn, but then there's a separate population of people in her lab that experienced 02:03:06.120 |
the smell of microwave popcorn as exactly the same as pungent vomit. And she claims it's on the basis of a 02:03:15.080 |
variant in one of these olfactory receptors, which also speaks to the relationship between smell and taste, 02:03:20.200 |
you know, like nobody wants to eat something that smells putrid. Yeah. Yeah. Generally, one would hope. 02:03:25.160 |
What are some other examples of foods where people tend to diverge on the basis of something, 02:03:29.720 |
uh, known to be, or almost certainly biological as opposed to just, 02:03:34.760 |
I wasn't raised eating that or that seems weird. So one thing that comes to mind that isn't quite that, 02:03:41.480 |
um, is, uh, parmesan cheese, which, um, has as one of its primary, uh, flavor components, butyric acid, 02:03:53.000 |
which is also the main thing that makes vomit smell like vomit. And some people, uh, just can't eat 02:04:01.160 |
parmesan cheese for that reason. Others don't notice it. Uh, others kind of notice it, but it's okay. It's part of 02:04:08.840 |
being parmesan cheese. Uh, so a lot depends on not only the sort of the individual apparatus 02:04:17.080 |
experiencing a food, but then also what's kind of normal for that food to contain. And because, 02:04:23.720 |
uh, uh, uh, cow's milk is especially rich in, um, uh, butyric acid as one of the components of the 02:04:34.680 |
fats. That's what you get when the breakdown takes place. 02:04:38.840 |
I like the example of parmesan cheese more for me, more for me. My last question is, um, not in the 02:04:47.720 |
domain of food or chemistry, but, um, it's about poetry. This is a science health podcast, but you're 02:04:54.200 |
here and, and you have the expertise. So I'm going to ask you, I love poetry. What is something that you 02:04:59.160 |
learned about Keats that most people don't know that is, at least to you, particularly interesting. 02:05:04.360 |
And then I'll ask you to suggest, uh, a Keats starter pack. Um, maybe name one, one, uh, 02:05:11.640 |
Keats poem that everyone should go read. We'll put a link to it. But first question is, uh, you spent 02:05:15.800 |
considerable amount of time researching Keats and learning about him and his work. So, um, 02:05:21.800 |
what's something that we're not going to learn elsewhere? Yeah. Yeah. Uh, I think one of the most 02:05:29.240 |
important things about his, his development, uh, and the reason that he wrote the kind of poetry he did, 02:05:36.120 |
which was often, um, concerned with, uh, with death eventually, ultimately, um, is that he started out 02:05:47.960 |
life as a medical student? He was a medical student at, uh, uh, uh, Guy's Hospital in London, 02:05:57.560 |
which still exists and has a long, um, uh, amazing history. Um, he was a medical student. He, uh, had a 02:06:08.840 |
mother and a brother who both died of TB and he attended them, uh, in their illnesses. And, uh, 02:06:19.800 |
so to know that, and then to read, uh, a poem like "To Autumn," which is the poem that I would, uh, 02:06:31.320 |
suggest people read, uh, I think just adds a dimension of, um, um, uh, appreciation to that poem. 02:06:44.200 |
Because there's, there's nothing about death in the poem. It's just a description of a natural scene 02:06:51.640 |
in the autumn, um, but that those experiences are there. And, uh, knowing that and reading not only 02:07:01.160 |
that poem, but, but many others, um, I'm sure it was, um, well, I, I think he wrote poetry both to, um, 02:07:12.120 |
comfort people and to kind of work through what it is that life is all about, that he needs to come to 02:07:21.560 |
terms with in order to have lived that, that life. Thank you for that. We will go read, uh, to Autumn 02:07:30.040 |
and, uh, we'll look for those experiences, uh, inside of that. A couple of things I want to say. Uh, 02:07:37.400 |
first of all, uh, thank you so much for coming here and, and sharing your knowledge with us. Um, 02:07:42.920 |
I'm certain that it's going to change the way that people experience food and drink, and if nothing else 02:07:48.760 |
will get them chewing their food and pausing between bites here and there to get deeper into 02:07:54.120 |
the experience of food. Uh, it's also nice. Uh, in fact, it's very refreshing to be able to talk about 02:08:00.840 |
food, uh, on this podcast, uh, not within the context of just fueling the body and health benefits. Uh, 02:08:08.760 |
those are critically important, but obviously food has cultural aspects and it has 02:08:13.960 |
taste aspects and it's one of the great sources of pleasure in life. So, um, you've taught us how to 02:08:18.920 |
get more pleasure from, from food and also it's links to history and human evolution. I mean, there's, 02:08:24.360 |
there's so much there and we'll put links to your books that explore, uh, chemistry of food and, and 02:08:29.240 |
other, other aspects. I also just, I want to thank you because whether you intended to or not, um, 02:08:35.080 |
you're a wonderful example of how somebody, uh, follows their interests and blends them. Um, and 02:08:41.640 |
how talking about your interests with people, um, can help you get opportunities to get paid to do what 02:08:49.800 |
you do? You know, people often wonder, you know, how do I take my varied interests and, and put them 02:08:54.360 |
into something and they'll try and like, like thread the needle from this to that. And, and I, I'm not 02:08:59.400 |
going to make up a story here, but what I gathered was that just by being you and being open-minded and 02:09:05.240 |
answering questions when people ask that, uh, you've been able to, uh, braid together your, your interests 02:09:10.520 |
in a way that's allowed you to have a very unique career that's very impactful. Your books have been read 02:09:15.720 |
by so many people and this conversation will be heard by so many people. So thank you for that. 02:09:21.320 |
It's a reminder to just be oneself and things generally work out and that you're continuing to 02:09:27.480 |
do the great work that you're doing. So once again, thanks for taking the time to come down here and 02:09:31.960 |
talk to us. I'm going to try some new foods. I think I'm going to do this tea thing. I need some 02:09:36.360 |
greenery in my place and I'm going to, I think I'm going to do that. So I have questions for you about that. 02:09:40.280 |
And, um, yeah, thanks so much. I really appreciate the work you're doing. 02:09:44.200 |
Well, you know, thank you very much, Andrew. If I can just say a word, um, about how, um, 02:09:51.000 |
how rare it is to talk with people who are broadly interested in sort of the details of life, 02:09:59.960 |
but also the meaning of life and, you know, what's, what's possible and what's not, uh, that, um, that makes 02:10:07.160 |
me especially happy to be here. Um, and I was just going to say that, um, I, I looked at this, 02:10:13.960 |
the book about food as being, you know, a one-off and then I would write about gardening or, you know, 02:10:21.640 |
something else. Um, and I just got captured by the subject. You know, there's, it's hard to think of 02:10:27.960 |
something that's more central to, um, you know, just sustaining human life, but also getting pleasure 02:10:34.760 |
from it. And, uh, so I, I went down the rabbit hole and I'm still down there. 02:10:40.360 |
Well, we're grateful you are. So thank you. And thanks for putting the knowledge you collect in 02:10:45.160 |
that rabbit hole out into the world. Thank you. Thank you for joining me for today's discussion 02:10:49.960 |
with Dr. Harold McGee to learn more about his work and to find links to his books. 02:10:54.200 |
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